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@Christonian Interesting that it fixed it for a bit. Sounds a bit like software/firmware IMHO. I would contact LG support directly to see if they know if it is a known issue with the C9 and that firmware update. I think I have seen other complaints about B7 and C9 flickering. Push the issue and insist on a replacement under warrantee if they try to fob you off.

@George Hofmeister I am sure you are correct about the LAN side (100mbps, no 1Gbps LAN yet) but most newer LG sets have WiFi 802.11ac support, so that should be much higher than that, especially on the 5GHz band). @Amir Abulajras have a look at my post about a snippet I found on another forum (if you are using the 5GHz band, ensure you are using a channel below 100, I find 36 works well - I assume you are able to log into your router OK, for you to do that change of channel under the WiFi advanced settings or setup) : "Network/Ethernet/Wi-Fi Problem: C9 [or other models] will lose the wireless connection and you have to reconnect daily (but wired is stable); Conditions: TV is connected to a 5GHz router; Cause: (1) the router may be unstable on the 5GHz band [possibly too far from router]; (2) the router has the 5GHz band set on a higher channel - over 100; Resolution: (1) change the TV to the 2.4GHz band OR (2) set the channel [in the ROUTER advanced WiFi settings]!! for the 5GHz band below 100 (ex. 40-50) - [channel 36 is often OK]."

@Hblone Apologies I did not notice that your locaton was Italy, and your problem is with a recently purchased Italian variant LG TV. It does seem odd that older model has a working Time Machine functionality, but the newer model would have a restriction (maybe due to cost, or difficulties with current copyright laws in Italy). Have you tried contacing the shop where it was purchased from, or LG Italy directly, for comment? This forum is NOT an official arm of LG (they might look at it if we are lucky, but I don't think they officially comment here directly).

@Hblone I see from the spec here: https://www.lg.com/uk/tvs/lg-55un74006lb that it shows "Time Machine (DVR) YES" so the recording functionality IS there, but it will need a small self-powered HDD (external backup type of hard disk) plugged into the USB3 socket to activate the recording functionality that the TV has. NOTE: the new disk when added, may trigger a recording "setup" automatically anyway, so be aware that it may well want to format it to the TV requirements (file structures, folder names etc), that may take a few minutes. Use Velcro or a cable tie to hold the external disk in a convenient place, so that it does not strain the connection cable (NEVER let it hang from the cable). I would use about 500GB or a 1TB HDD drive, depending on the amount of recordings you want to do, and if HD quality or not. ALSO: be aware that even when in standby, the TV will still have enough "smart electronic logic" active to do the scheduled recordings on its own, it does NOT need to be in the ON state, BUT DO NOT TURN IT OFF AT THE WALL SOCKET OBVIOUSLY! 😊 If you have a smart remote, you might find the "Q.MENU" button, or one button marked "123" to get to your settings. If you had a separate manual for your remote or TV, have a good read to see if it helps with the recording side. It MIGHT be the "settings" cog button on yours, I am not sure. I find the Time Machine scheduling a bit clunky and non-intelligent on my older LG, but you may find your later one is smarter? A typical issue is that (unlike a set-top-box like Sky) it will not necessarrily "track" any time changes to a scheduled program if it starts late. If you adjust it to start at an earlier time, then the "File/program name" will reflect the PREVIOUS program title, and NOT the actual one that is the main recorded program!! I know that the smart remotes have a good voice command function, so press the button to activate the microphone and try saying "time machine". I find the voice command useful to get to "settings" with my older magic remote, as I can never remember how to get to it on my TV otherwise... 😊 By the way, I find that Toshiba, Western Digital, or Seagate portable USB3 drives are good for this, use this Google search term to see what is available in your area: "site:.uk Western Digital portable drive" or "site:.uk seagate portable drive" without the quotes. The site thing limits sites to your country/area/locale so avoids generic ".COM" sites usually.

@Christonian Thanks for confirmation.I just spotted this on another forum for LG C9 flickering/flashing bright: "Its related to the « Logo Luminance » setting...just turn it off and you will be ok". I do NOT have a C9, so cannot verify that, but it is worth a go. Others said it fixed the issue.

@Christonian thanks for quick feedback. If you can post what firmware level you are on, might be useful. Typically in About TV, or system details, or in the update screen.

For those who get frequent WiFi connection drop-outs, I picked this bit of useful info from another forum. Note that this may well apply to many other LG models than the C9, as they often use common WiFi internal cards/modules: "Network/Ethernet/Wi-Fi Problem: C9 [or other models] will lose the wireless connection and you have to reconnect daily (but wired is stable); Conditions: TV is connected to a 5GHz router; Cause: (1) the router may be unstable on the 5GHz band [possibly too far from router]; (2) the router has the 5GHz band set on a higher channel - over 100; Resolution: (1) change the TV to the 2.4GHz band (2) set the channel [in the ROUTER advanced WiFi settings]!! for the 5GHz band below 100 (ex. 40-50) - [channel 36 is often OK]."

@Christonian Is the issue on any channel, only specific ones (e.g. HD). Is it more so with animated films? First, have you got any extra devices attached (e.g. BD/DVD player, AV amp [AVR], or TV cable box via the AV AMP into the TV eARC HDMI). If so, are ALL of those devices connected via good quality cable that cover HDMI 2.0 or 2.0a (often quoted as 2.1)? Lower quality ones can be a loose fit and have connection or internal crimp issues. Second, have you checked that you have the latest firmware update in that TV. I see that the latest might be 04.80.03 depending on your region (copied from AVFORUMS, user post dfa937)? If no joy with any of the above, I would get it checked or replaced under warrantee. FIRMWARE INFO: "- 04.80.03 - KR, US, EU, June 2020 OFFICIAL CHANGE LOG: Apple AirPlay function improvement - (the rest of changes mentioned below are UNOFFICIAL, extracted from the firmware itself) WebOS version updated to v4.8.0-52203 The device codec capability configuration for the EAC3 codec changed from 6 channels to 8 channels. The device codec capability configuration (EDID) for the LPCM codec changed from 2 channels to 8 channels, so the 2019 models can Pass-Trough multi-channel PCM audio via eARC ---- this firmware update has a bug which causes eARC to incorrectly mark multi-channel PCM sample rates - rendering some AVRs/Soundbars mute The list of CA certificates was updated. Media server 8K video playback support added. The max size of the saved EPG data was increased (size of the volume increased by 10MB). Airplay application was added to the list of apps that are kept alive. Built-In App-Updates: WebOS Browser App (Chromium) updated (internal version didn't change). LG Advertisement App updated. Firmware updates of the following modules: WIFI Audio DSP HDMI 2.1

@Vikram Sud Is the issue with the internal TV speaker, or with an external AV amp (AV Receiver) or sound-bar? Does it do this on all channels, or one particular channel? When it happens, do you have to do anything, or does it return to normal volume on its own? Do you have any other devices attached to the TV via HDMI or SCART/PHONO/RCA leads, or any USB devices? If so try removing them if not in use. Do you have any Home Automation active (such as Amazon Echo, or Alexa, Google Home etc.), that might be able to control the TV in any way?

@Cengiz Haskan I agree, it seems like a software issue. At a guess, I would say that the wrong "codec" is being called, or there is a corruption of a software routine (or a firmware issue). Youtube App and the site should be able to use and decode the following formats (first 5 the most common). To test if the app or browser is at fault, use your laptop/PC to find a few videos to download, put on a USB stick and plug it into the TV, see if the built-in player will play any of them. See if there are any outstanding updates to either of those apps. FORMATS: .MOV, .MPEG4, .MP4, .AVI, .WMV, .MPEGPS, .FLV, LESS COMMON: .3GPP, .WebM, .DNxHR, .ProRes, .CineForm, HEVC (h265)

@Hinderslyne I se a lot of complaints about this Channel 4 app. It seems to have a lot of trouble handling advert transitions to and from the viewing program. I see that too sometimes with other apps here in OZ. It is possible that their CDN (Content Delivery Network) servers are struggling. Best thing would be for you to log in to that Channel 4 site, and decribe your issues,how many times it happens per day, and what effect it has on your viewing pleasure. The more complaints, the quicker it gets fixed. Check your network though: Are you using WiFi or LAN internet connection? If WiFi, is it 5GhZ or 2.4GhZ band? Does the signal strength look good on a phone using the same WiFi band as the TV, when you are near the TV?

@Kane The memory of a smart TV cannot be upgraded or extended like a PC, it is a completetely different and closed hardware architecture. If you want to use the "Time Machine II" program recording function, you will need to use something at LEAST 64GB capacity, plugged into the USB port. You will find a 1TB Seagate Hard Disk (or similar make) USB3 spec will work well for recording programs, even HD. The socket with the blue centre is usually the USB3 socket, that is the fastest, best spec. I have mine tied to the TV bracket with a cable tie (never let it dangle from the cable only). You need to connect it and let the Time Machine function detect it, and "format" it to its requirements. Note that the TV only has to be plugged in and on standby, for scheduled recordings to work, it does not need to be ON, it only turns on the disk and the tuner in standby 1 minute before the scheduled time (screen will be off).

@Rosefay Yes, I find that annoying too. It seems that the best way to get the catchup services where no proper "app" exists yet, is: Hit the green button and that will get you into freeview plus (can take a while to load, might have to press the green a couple of times, then yellow for the menu I think) . Plus7 and the other catch up services are accessible that way. Otherwise get a Apple TV which has all the catch up apps. I find those menus very clunky and hit & miss though, not very intuitive. You DO get used to them, and sometimes the Advert transitions will crash the running app/program, and you have to use the BACK button. I sometimes use my Windows 10 laptop, and connect via the browser (I use Firefox, as it has a VERY GOOD password manager to remember all the account passwords), and go to: https://10play.com.au/ then log in and select any programs or catch-up for missed episodes etc, and I use a spare HDMI cable to connect to a spare slot at the back of the TV (or now through my smart AV amp). Select that HDMI input on your TV and start playing your programs. Of course I am assuming you have an HDMI socket on your laptop! If not, and the TV and laptop are on the same WiFi network, the built-in CONNECT app might work (it is in the expanded app control part of the NOTIFICATIONS area, bottom right, in Windows 10).

@Alcides Andrade Thanks for the useful feedback. I had read about that "problem" too, somewhere on this forum, but it is the first time I have seen it confirmed. I assume that all your OTHER devices on your home network have been fine with the special characters? I find it very odd, that the firmware and WiFi internal card can be written to work for a time, then drop out the 5G. Did this work for longer on the 2.4G, or were you not able to test that? Actually a hyphen (dash) character is not all that special, and I have seen SSID names with spaces in, that work, so it is a bit of a subtle "bug" (as it is part of a standard character set in many languages). If it had been a Tilde (~) then OK, a bit more obscure, but not impossible to code for surely? Glad you got it working, you post may be useful to others, thanks again.

@WebOs TV Correct, that sort of feature does not exist. Come back in 10 years... 😊

@Gaogier No, the bit of extra internal storage on some models is (usually) for holding small amounts of live TV footage for pausing, or doing very small amounts of "Time Machine" recordings. The external USB storage connectors are for using either USB sticks, to play music files from, or display photos, or for connecting a camera. Most newer models have a USB3 socket, that most folks use for adding a self-powered 1TB Seagate or Western Digital (or similar) HDD hard-drive (via the supplied cable), and this can be used for the scheduling of "Time machine II" recordings. The OS Memory and APPS memory is only on the assigned internal memory (hardware chips) of the TV, and is NOT available for "expanding" in any way, so the apps are always internally allocated there. The size, format and quality of user added external memory is such a big variable, that the manufacturer could NEVER control (or allow) such a thing to be able to successfully use such a scheme. Many users are surprised by such limitations, as they are trying to compare them with PC architectures, but they are worlds apart in that respect. It is (and has to be) a closed eco-system of internal components, so as to work reliably, and seamlessly together. APPLE TV: Did you check the LG apps store on the 6300 TV? If it is not there, would not hold your breath waiting for the APP to appear on your 65UK6300, but you could call LG support and ask directly. This is only an LG forum, NOT owned or run by LG.

@Alcides Andrade What does the signal strength show for the 5G, in the TV room, on the WiFiInfoView program? Does it vary much over time?

@Alcides Andrade It might be that the new update is making the 5G more sensitive to interference on channels. If you have a laptop or desktop that can access 5G WiFi, download the neat program "WiFiInfoView" from here: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html and run it. Wait for a couple of minutes for it to settle down and pick up your close neighbours WiFi SSID's and check if any close ones are on your same 5G channel. I use channel 36 on mine, and see no interference. If you don't have a manual for your router model, download one from the manufacturers site, check how to log in, and go to the settings, try changing the channel number to one that nobody else is using. If you test it in the same room as the TV, this will give you a better picture of what the TV will being getting.

@radtek2 That does sound rather like a B7 Firmware bug (it should be able to detect which is the "active" one). Have you by any chance left the Optical/Toslink cable still in place and connected somewhere, as well as the HDMI? It does seem odd though that the settings combine 2 different output methods in ONE option/setting. My older LG has them separate.

@radtek2 I seem to rmember on my LG there was a setting for the sound to ensure it is sent out via HDMI, rather than Optical or Internal speakers, did you do that on yours?

@Darlz Do you have other devices in the house working OK via Wifi, and do the settings on those show the correct SSID name? Have you rebooted your router, if not do that and retry. If still no luck, try unplugging the TV from the wall socket (or removing the plug from the back if it has the unpluggable sort and is easier). Leave it OFF for 5 minutes or so, then turn it back on, and retry. If your router is not too far from the TV, try using a LAN cable from the router, and plug it into the Ethernet LAN connection socket, try again. If you DO want to troubleshoot the WiFi more, see below: In the room where the TV is, do you actually see the WiFi signal strength/activity Bars Icon on your mobile phone (NOT the phone tower strength steps)? Bear in mind that modern routers use a 2.4GB band AND a 5GB band (NOTHING to do with 5G phones by the way). However, the 5GB band being a higher frequency means that the signal strength & quality drops off quickly the further your device (TV in your case) is from the router. SO: Does your phone (when used in the same room as the TV), show a GOOD signal on the WiFi bars when using the SAME WiFi that the TV is trying to use? The SSID names SHOULD be different to enable you to see which is which, but is it not always the case. What is the make and model of your router? Are you able to go into the Network Settings for your TV WiFi, and see if you can connect more stable on the 2.4GB band SSID? I know it will be limited to 150GBPS or 300GBPS, but still faster than 100GBP LAN speeds. If still unstable, and your TV is under warrantee, get the WiFi module inside it replaced (most of them are little WiFi/Blutooth Combo cards, plug-in replacements). The Bluetooth part is to support half of the Magic remote buttons/functions.

@Kuriko It sounds like a firmware bug, report it to LG support.

@Spinderella Do you have other devices in the house working OK via Wifi, and do the settings on those show the correct SSID name? Have you rebooted your router, if not do that and retry. If still no luck, try unplugging the TV from the wall socket (or removing the plug from the back if it has th eunpluggable sort and is easier). Leave it OFF for 5 minutes or so, then turn it back on, and retry. If your router is not too far from the TV, try using a LAN cable from the router, and plug it into the Ethernet Lan connection socket, try again. In the room where the TV is, do you actually see the WiFi signal strength/activity Bars Icon on your mobile phone?

@Diaa237 The Magic Remote is not natively set up to "emulate" the left or right Mouse buttons like on PC's/Laptops, as it is NOT like a mouse at all (other than they have BlueTooth commmunication). However, it is always possible that some APPS on the TV could software "emulate" that by requiring a particular coloured button to be pressed to be "equivalent" to a right-click, if it is ever needed for, say a compatibility reason inside a specific APP. Where are you seeing this "right-click" asked for, on some odd site on the inbuilt browser maybe? I am very curious about your question.

@Dave Barry Just curious what the make and model of your "Network Gateway" is? Have you checked the power settings on THAT - again because many home devices (routers etc) also have power settings that can "sleep" devices when there is no activity. I have them all set "OFF"/Disabled on my Billion Router (as there is no such thing as "perfect software/firmware", and some devices cannot resume the internal services - like WiFi or VOIP routines properly from sleep). It is possibly just "waking from sleep" rather than a full reboot? How do you "know" it is actually doing a reboot? The TV will NOT be making the Gateway sleep, it will most likely be it is dropping to a low-power state (sleep mode) when there is no activity, because of those default settings, that many folks do not change unless they fully read the manual or specs.