td47

@Lgoled65pau One more thing to check, I only learned of this the other day: I just noticed on another forum, that certain LG models might have difficulty saving WiFi network SSID names longer than 8 characters!! Odd I know, but if yours is a bit longer, try logging into your router and changing your network SSID names, ( and remove any special or odd characters in the names, on both the 2.4G and 5G bands) to shorter names of 8 or fewer characters, and reconnecting. A pain I know, as other devices will have to reconnect to find the new names.

@queequeg65 thanks for feedback. That seems to be the latest one, from October 2019. Keep checking, over the next few months, in case they bring out a newer firmware. You COULD in the meantime try playing the Security and Privacy card, and officially complain to LG Support. Have a read of this (there are probaly more/later technical articles on this): https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/wifi-direct-insecure/

@geoffHome First, what is the TV model number, and the router make and model? It is often good to ensure that the TV has the latest firmware, AND the router too. I assume you can log into the router? NOTE: many non-tech users do NOT think about the router, as it just sits there and works (until it doesn't), and do not think about the default router admin password, that is often just admin with a password of admin, which is a very insecure situation, and leaves your router open to hacking. It is best to change that, if you have not done that already, and if you CAN log in via a laptop/PC, do so and check the system log and security log (you can usually use 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.254 as the "URL" in your browser). The router hardware is comprised of several internal discreet sections, with the Ethernet LAN part and the WiFi parts driven by separate software routines, any of which can crash, and exit the router memory,and do not always auto-restart. VOIP software is typical for this too. Make sure that your WiFi strength is good where your TV is (use a smart phone to check the signal bars), and if the 5G band is weak, switch he TV to the 2.4G one.

@queequeg65 What is the TV model number? Maybe it is just an inadvertent omission (bug) in the firmware/Web-OS for this model, let me check. I guess that @davexnet might be thinking the same.

@queequeg65 On my LG screen under the NETWORK part of the main TV settings (NOT the Screen Share app), you should see the WiFi Direct option, and in there when selected, (on the same line as the WiFi Direct name, just to the right of it), the OFF or ON should be a toggle, so in theory, with the Magic Remote, you should just be able to "click" on it to turn that to the OFF state. This function should be seperate from the normal/standard WiFi connection settings, so do NOT mess with that one.

@Lgoled65pau Does this TV have any kind of "save" button on that WiFi setup? Some UI (User Interfaces) do have that. The other thing to consider, is if there are any "power saving" functions on that TV, for specific parts of it (like there is on PC/Laptops to allow a software controlled "sleep" of parts of it, like the WiFi internal adaptor)? If you have eliminated that, you might want to check the WiFi signal quality in the room where our TV is, see below. Another thing often overlooked, is power control in the ROUTER itself, mine had some power saving controls set to default (sleep on low activity overnight), so set all those to full power or not active (i.e. running at 100% all of the time), if you can log into it. If the router is close to the TV, try a LAN cable if possible. So, as this TV has the ability to use either a LAN cable, or WiFi on either a 2.4G (802.11n) or the 5G band (802.11ac spec), do you know WHICH band you connect to, if you are using WiFi rather than the LAN cable? The reason I ask, is that most non-tech users do NOT realize that the 5G WiFi band signal strength drops off rapidly the further you are away from the Router. Larger houses are much worse of course. If you have a smart phone, you can walk around your house, watching the WiFi signal strength Icon at the top, and see how many radial bars you get on that icon when in the place where the TV is. So, if you phone can connect to the 5G WiFi band, check that signal state near the TV. If it is a low number of "bars" (NOT the Phone tower strength icon, the WiFi Icon bars), then you have most likely found your issue. (BUT it should be clever enough to reconnect automatically, UNLESS the signal is very erratic, and not good enough most times). In the same place where the TV is, you should then check the 2.4G band, by connecting the phone to that band, and checking the signal strength bars. If that is much better (as I suspect it might be), then try one of the possible workarounds below. There are a few ways you can remedy this issue. The first way will not involve any cost: you can try to change the WiFi network connection for the TV, so that it connects to the 2.4G band instead (hopefully you have different SSID names for each one so it is easy to see/check), and recheck how things are. Hopefully that wil be more stable (but will only run at 150Mbps - 300Mbps, but still faster the 100MB LAN speed). If the WiFi is STILL too weak on both bands where the TV is, you might have to invest in either a PLA (Power Line Adaptor) to get the Ethernet signals to the TV easily via the mains plug wiring (they use HomePlug AV2 technology) . You have one by the router, and the other plug device by your TV, so it uses 2 short LAN cables, one to each adaptor plug device. The other alternative is to use a WiFi repeater or extender, that extends your WiFi coverage to the parts of the house where it is weaker. I hope this is useful.

@frpatte I see that So, as this TV has the ability to use either a LAN cable, or WiFi on either a 2.4G (802.11n) or the 5G band (802.11ac spec), do you know WHICH band you connect to, if you are using WiFi rather than the LAN cable? The reason I ask, is that most non-tech users do NOT realize that the 5G WiFi band signal strength drops off rapidly the further you are away from the Router. Larger houses are much worse of course. If you have a smart phone, you can walk around your house, watching the WiFi signal strength Icon at the top, and see how many radial bars you get on that icon when in the place where the TV is. So, if you phone can connect to the 5G WiFi band, check that signal state near the TV. If it is a low number of "bars" (NOT the Phone tower strength icon, the WiFi Icon bars), then you have most likely found your issue. In the same place where the TV is, you should then check the 2.4G band, by connecting the phone to that band, and checking the signal strength bars. If that is much better (as I suspect it might be), then try one of the possible workarounds below. There are a few ways you can remedy this issue. The first way will not involve any cost: you can try to change the WiFi network connection for the TV, so that it connects to the 2.4G band instead (hopefully you have different SSID names for each one so it is easy to see/check), and recheck how things are. Hopefully that wil be more stable (but will only run at 150Mbps - 300Mbps, but still faster the 100MB LAN speed). If the WiFi is STILL too weak on both bands where the TV is, you might have to invest in either a PLA (Power Line Adaptor) to get the Ethernet signals to the TV easily via the mains plug wiring (they use HomePlug AV2 technology) . You have one by the router, and the other plug device by your TV, so it uses 2 short LAN cables, one to each adaptor plug device. The other alternative is to use a WiFi repeater, that extends your WiFi coverage to the parts of the house where it is weaker. I hope this is useful. **UPDATE** I just noticed on another forum, that certainLG models might have difficulty saving WiFi network SSID names longer than 8 characters!! Odd I know, but if yours is a bit longer, try logging into your router and changin your network SSID names to shorter ones, and reconnecting. A pain I know, as other devices wil have to be edited to connect.

@RuskinF I agree that the disk needs a full filesystem integrity check, but I suspect that the underlying problem may be more than a compatibility issue. Reading the OP, I see "The exact password was lost so I tried a number of variations and was able to finally unlock the drv and remove the password using WD Utilities. It worked for a bit and I was able to copy out a few files using a Surface Pro/ Windows 10 but it stopped". So that is why I asked the OP if the drive had been encrypted in some way (partially, or whole disk), with a WD utility, or BITLOCKER. However, since he was able to read SOME files at one point in time, on a Windows 10 machine, might suggest some curruption due to incorrect/unsafe removal several times, making the issue worse. If there ARE bad blocks/sectors, then the GRC SpinRite utility may be able to resurrect some of the initially unreadable parts.

@JetForce This is an interesting (but complex) issue. I assume that the HDMI CEC channel control (like anynet turn on/off stuff) is done by the LG TV device configurator software/firmware, but it is odd that it only works during the setup and test phase, but fails during normal working. This would suggest that this is either a firmware bug at the TV end, or some complex incompatibility, where a CEC standard has not been fully adhered to on one side (TV or your speakers). My suggestion would be to raise a call ticket with your speaker manufacturer, giving them as much detail as possible, to see if they have any new firmware in test that might fix your issue. Depending on what they say, you could then push the issue back to LG, with the extra "knowledge" gained from NUBERT, as it could still be an LG firmware bug. In the meantime, you might want to review the 2 links here, so you can add to your case technically if you need to, and rebutt any BS that either side comes back with: See this interesting article about ARC, eARC and sound compatibility: https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-audio-return-channel-and-earc-for-beginners/ If you need to get very deep into the inner workings of the HDMI Interface, this YouTube video is very good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5acgSK0kWTE

@JetForce You might want to check via the smartphone app, that the auto on/off setting is set to active, so it has some "Staying power" as the TV might not be able to control this setting. Also read the notes: (seen under the ADVANCED section) – auto power The nuPro’s electronics have an automatic standby function that automatically switches the loudspeaker into power-saving mode when it is not needed - and also switches it back on again automatically. If the menu item off is selected here, this is automatically deactivated. Note: For more information on the stand-by automatic function, see page 6 in the Design and Engineering section (you need to email the company to get this I think). However, as the HDMI/ARC adaptor goes into the USB socket on the speaker, see this section: "Auto-on function The automatic switch-off/switch-on reacts differently depending on the pre-selected input. If no signal is present at the analog signal inputs, an automatic switch-off takes place within 20 minutes. Switching on is reversed as soon as a music signal is detected. At the other inputs, the activity of the connected source device is monitored and therefore immediately switched off or on. At the inputs Spdif, Optical, Port, AES the presence of the digital data stream is evaluated, while at the USB input the presence of the USB supply voltage is considered. Note: Modern computers often have USB sockets with a voltage applied even when the computer is switched off (e.g. for charging a mobile phone). If you want to use the auto-on function of your nuPro active loudspeakers in conjunction with the USB input, you must select a USB connector that does not have continuous voltage."

@George Hofmeister you mentioned Sytem File Checker (SFC utility), but THAT is only designed to check the integrity of the Windows OS System Files. I think you meant to say "chkdsk" command. That will certainly help to see if the file system on there is in good shape or not, and if it has bad sectors. If the latter, see my post about the Spinrite utility.

@Mike78j How was the WD drive protected? Was it via a WD drive software protection (WD Security tools, encryption etc), or a Windows system protection like BITLOCKER? If it was the WD Security tools, then MAYBE their own utilities MIGHT be able to unlock it properly. You say that it has removed the password, BUT has it then properly "unencrypted" it? If it was via BITLOCKER, then ONLY that same software could properly decrypt it. Another possiblity is that the drive has been "unsafely" removed from a system, and now has a corrupted file system. If it was formatted as FAT32, then that is definitely a possibility, but an NTFS volume is less likely to suffer from this when unsafely removed from a USB connection . It could STILL be bad sectors, that were not fully written during a removal at some time previously, causing your issue. Rather than spend a LOT of money on data recovery, I would recommend that you purchase and try a well respected utilty called SPINRITE, by security and sofware guru Steve Gibson, of GRC (Gibson Research Corporation). You can review it at the link below, and read the testimonials and decide if you want to try it. Many IT support specialists use this tool to recover bad drives and recover data. https://www.grc.com/sr/spinrite.htm

@Assem elmurr See this: https://www.lg.com/ae/support/support-product/lg-60UJ651V If you are below firmware 05.80.03, then you will not have this useful fix (especially item 3): 1. Improvement regarding Netflix usability have been applied. 2. Addition of satellite channels and feature updates in certain countries. (Russia/CIS country) 3. IPv6 connection feature on/off can be selected from Network/Wired Connection settings. *** 4. also, minor bugs are fixed. Note that the latest version is 05.80.60 so best to get that version, using the USB stick method, reboot TV, go to the network settings, and you might find that turning the IPV6 to OFF will fix it up, as most home networks don't need/use IPV6, IPV4 works just fine (sometimes IPV6, if active, can cause odd technical issues). Are you using the inbuilt WiFi dongle, or a direct LAN cable connection from your router by the way, or those IP over mains power plugs with LAN cables? If the latter, some are glitchy and need re-pairing often, and do NOT like going into those multi socket strips. To be sure all is well if LAN connected,try a laptop on the network cable used for the TV, to be sure it works, before messing with the TV settings.

Apologies again, I should have looked at the supported status of your ROKU 3 box. It came out in 2013, and is no longer being manufactured. It seems that: "Roku is Ending Support for Older Models" https://www.cordcuttersnews.com/roku-is-ending-support-for-older-models/ ALSO NOTE the note for your model: *** Supports 60fps at 720p. Supports 30fps at 1080p. [max seems to be 1080p so some of your source might only be going out at 720p, that might not be upscaleable by your TV] HOWEVER: your Roku 3 (which is their model 4200X, internal name Mustang) IS UPDATEABLE, so do go to Settings > System update > Check now to see if you have the latest updates. INFO FROM: https://developer.roku.com/en-ca/docs/specs/hardware.md?fbclid=IwAR2ytxK8riNKJF8xjyWK6G-jxgz3_ba0I54HhiMYckJnRZcd-X1JQebNZVc It is also worth ensuring that the LG TV PLEX app is fully up to date too, but note "the app version you see on the LG store is like a boot loader. Once it runs on your TV it downloads the latest updated version of the “actual” client direct from Plex. update servers". LATEST I SEE IS: Version : 4.15.0 Platform(s) : LG webOS (2+ UHD)

Aplogies if you have already tried this, and I am not absolving the APP, BUT have you checked the the HDMI cable is a recent spec one (1.4A at least). If not, replace it with a better one, AND if the Roku is NOT using HDMI1 (usually the ARC one), try that as well. I had all sorts of weird issues when i first started using my smart LG TV, because of ONE down-spec cable.

FYI: for those that have devices that have Miracast support inbuilt (e.g. a later Windows 10 OS device), here is a useful article to read and try out if it works with your TV. No guarantees of course, as there are a few catches and caveats, as the post threads here show. https://www.lifewire.com/show-screen-using-miracast-4774962

FYI: the above setting is VERY important, for device and multimedia sharing, as @KPWK has found. You get a nice GUI window where you can allow or disallow devices as required. NOTE: it often happens that Feature Updates to Windows10 (and some large updates) e.g. 1809 to 1903 etc will reset the Media Streaming back to OFF, so DO remember to recheck after any big update or Feature Upgrade happens, and set it back ON if needed. Also note, that many older TV models might only use the 2.4G WiFi, so ensure both devices use the same network, and not have your sending device on the 5G one.

Hi, I forgot to ask an obvious question: has there been any evidence of leaking batteries left in the remote? It is a common occurrence, and if run-down batteries are left in any device like this, the leaking chemicals can play havoc with the printed circuit tracks and components inside them. They are often alkaline, and can cause bad corrosion that can lead to partial shorts (low resistance paths) for signals to go to the wrong place, and can seep into the press-button contacts too. Look out for what looks like a "green rust" around the battery contacts in the remote (if you can see any of the circuit tracks, check those too). Bad corrosion often leaves things like remotes, calculators, toys etc. irreparable, but if you have caught it quickly enough, you MIGHT be able to salvage it, IF you know how to take the case apart (defeating the snap-in latches of the two halves can be a pain), AND you know about removing corrosion from PCB tracks and components. You might get lucky if it is only the button contact pads gone bad, try wiping with Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton-buds.

OK, you have eliminated the keys (maybe), so the keys use Infra-Red, the "blob" pointer uses BlueTooth. It might be just "broken" electronics in the remote, so needs a replacement. Interference IS a possibility, but rare, so check if yous folks use any Infra-Red "remote extender" devices for any other stuff (hifi, amps, dvd-players, set-top-box etc). Check if any OTHER remotes are near the TV (say stuck down a sofa with a button continually pressed). BLUETOOTH - check if there is a device (bluetooth speakers, notebook/laptop book reader) that might have a dodgy set-up. Turn them off if you can, or remove them to another room, and retest. My gut-feel is that the remote is just electronically faulty inside though.

You don't state what LG model, but if no OTA updates for the WEBOS/firmware are available, try using your PC/Laptop, download the latest version to a USB stick (not inside a folder, direct at top level), then follow manual on how to update from a USB stick. Then see if you can update stuff, or as Mark Jones has said, check on the LG store to see if YouTube can be installed or updated.

First, I would check for any stuck buttons on the remote itself, and look for any evidence of anything spilled on it, or in it, and check if anything feels sticky in between or near any of the buttons. If there IS anything sticky etc, (or if any of the keys stay down) remove the batteries, and use a mild solvent like Isopropyl Alcohol around and between the buttons (cotton buds can be used for this), until they feel better/free-er. Check the operation of EACH button to ensure none feels as if it is sticky or staying depressed, repeat the solvent if yes. Allow to dry in the open for 30 minutes, re-check the feel of the keys, if OK, put the batteries back in and try it again.

I believe this behaviour is by design, because the audio stream would be unintelligible gibberish at other than the normal speed. I think if you try this on a PC or Laptop using the same sites or players, you will get the same result - no audio output until you go back to normal speed. Most folks use the "higher speed forward" as a skip forward, and would not normally expect any audio anyway.

Sorry, I forgot to answer your question about speed testing. As it is a LAN adaptor, you need to do a LAN speed test (although it might be skewed by the fact that is converts signals to USB standards). However, this tool below can be installed on Windows or MacOS, and is only $10 for a single user licence. It seems to be well reviewed, and has lots of options. You will need to install it onto a laptop, and connect it to your interface and test it that way (or possibly via your home network IF you know that specific IP address for the adapter connection). https://totusoft.com/lanspeed

FYI: the LG the user had in his post on the PLEX.TV forums was an LG 65UJ750V. Another user found this type also useful on a similar LG TV: "if the TV carries a USB3 port get something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NPJP33M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My LG just went from its native ethernet limit up to 160Mbps. Batman Gotham by Gaslight (being the highest bitrate I have) now happily plays back on my LG without any hint of a buffer. Its still gonna be the ATV 4K as my default, however I can now play all Dolby Vision files in Plex on my LG" NOTE: a more up to date adaptor is also available, may be better still. See: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-AK-A7611011-USB-Ethernet-Network-Card-Adaptor/dp/B00PC0P2DI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce