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@Hayley Jack Looking at the Firmware version, that appears to be an old TV, from about 2014. It has an "odd" looking model of WEBOS1. Can you look at the sticker on the back of the TV to tell us the actual full model number? What sort of remote do you have? If it has a HOME button (usually with a house symbol on it), what displays if you press that? Do you get a scrollable list of apps and functions along the bottom, with one of them being LG Store if you scroll right enough (selecting the white icon with the 3 lines on it)?

@Pxg Thanks for the feedback, that 5.30.10 firmware update fixed this on the OLEDxxE8xxx range, this may be useful to others.

@Chandra Vravi Have you contacted the Hotstar support site to complain about the bugs? They are the developers, and are responsible for coding the APP to work on the different TV operating system types and versions. LG will just put what they receive, on the LG Store (if it is suitable for the model ranges it is designed for).

@Des Battersby If the TV (sound settings, output mode) will let you leave the internal speakers on with the optical output active then you connect a bluetooth transmitter to the optical input and pair your headphone with it. If the TV won't let you do that then you will need to split the optical output, connect both a soundbar and the BT transmitter to that. You will need to set the optical output to PCM stereo in either case. However, to avoid using a splitter, there is an Avantree unit I have seen (UK and Australian Amazon) that has a pass-through mode (put the unit first in line, then use a second optical cable to the Soundbar, then pair your Blutooth Headphones to the BT transmitter): https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07BQYYDNJ

@Rick Hantz Many users complain about LG (and other manufacturers) thatdo not update the in-built browser. Unfortunatley, internet standards and functiontality changes too rapidly for TV manufactureres to keep pace. In therory, it SHOULD be easy to treat the in-built browser like any other APP, and change it as needed, BUT my understanding is, that is it very tied in with the main video rendering chips in each model type, so that makes it very hard to rewrite the Browser APP to work with new functionality AND be compatible with the chip-sets in each model (as they will have very different capabilities accross the model ranges). You don't quote your model, but if it is a 2020 or 2021 model, and it is bad, try raising a complaint with LG support in your country.

@Pawpaw If you have nothing plugged into the AV3 ports, then it is likely a hardware issue. Some older models had to have the main board replaced (possibly a "dry soldered joint" or galvanic corrosion issue), so that false signal were seen by the WebOS on some ports, hence causing a false pop-up.

@protectionman If you have scheduled recordings, this will turn on the HDD to prepare for recording start. It will record in Standby mode, so the TV does not have to be in the "ON" state, just standby.

@OLED65CX6 Thanks for the link. i CAN indeed see Multi-View mentioned. Please take this up with LG support France, to see what they say, as this is only a peer-to-peer help forum, and does not lobby or control what LG does or does not do.

@harryw66 I believe I explained in my previous post, that LG did not renew the deal for those channel apps, with the Freeview consortium, in 2020 for 2020 model TV's to be able to use it. This forum can do NOTHING to help, in this respect, is has NO control or input to whatever technical and business decisions LG make or do. It would be best for you to complain directly to your country LG support.

@OLED65CX6 What "official site"? Please send us a link to clarify that your source of this information is valid, and pertains to the LG CX models that the OP posted about.

@OLED65CX6 It seems that some 2016 and 2017 TV's had this, and the C9, but the CX series did not get it. I thought I read somewhere that it was because few people used it! Of course that is bad news for users expecting it in their new TV! If you complain directly to LG, maybe enough users complaining MIGHT get some traction, but don't hold your breath!

@HankO Even if you router LAN connections, and any LAN Switches (to split single LAN cable to several hard wired boxes), are 1GB speed (i.e. 1000MBPS), the TV Ethernet chip-set will ONLY support up to 100Gbps, and even then you "lose" some bandwidth due to protocol loss (i.e. TCP/IP - Ethernet data packet dissassembly and re-assembling into a usable digital data stream). I do not know of any LG TV's that support 1GB speed yet, not sure of any other makes/models. Can you please confirm if you have the TV connected via WiFi or Ethernet LAN cable? If you are close enough to your router or AP (Access Point for WiFi), then good routers can supply that 1300Mbps you are after. It DOES depend on the channel your router is using, and the level of any interference from neighbours routers or AP's. If you have a modern laptop, that has 5GHz WiFi card in it (do NOT confuse that with phone 5G, that means Fifth Generation, NOT the 5GHz band!) a good place to start is to check the WiFi strength (signal quality) near the TV. I use this free software from Nirsoft. It wil show you your OWN WiFi network, the channel SSID for both the 2.4GHz and the faster 5GHz SSID (if they are not merged under one SSID, that makes it difficult).It also shows the signal quality, and OTHER nearby routers, and channels that THEY are using. For WiFi on the 2.4 I found channel 8 is often good, and channel 36 for the 5GHz, but channel 44 is also often good. Here is the link: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html NOTE: this will give you a ZIP file to download, so place it into its own folder, double click on it, and let it extract to the same folder. You can then just double click on the .EXE file in there, if you have "show file types" ticked on your file explorer view tab. By the way, if you are not sure about logging into your router (and it is one of these in the Spectrum page below), click on the down arrow by your router make/model, log in and check yout WiFi details for the channels (often in WiFi advanced settings), and change the channel numbers to avoid interference from others in the area, if needed: https://www.spectrum.net/support/internet/configuring-wireless-security-twc/

@Sampike999 If it is old, it might not have enough director elements at the front (signal shaping devices for better directional pickup for the actual antenna loop rod near the back end), and might not be wide band (to get all the channels you want). Also, old aerials tend to have corrosion, that can mean signal leakage, or oxidised terminals, making your 80 OHM signal matching way off. You can get a good aerial from Bunnings, see here: https://www.bunnings.com.au/antsig-fringe-65-element-outdoor-antenna_p4360232 Do you have a friend with a TV that you can test your BH player/amp with, for the problem? Of course if he has a good aerial signal, you might only see the issue with your setup! Or maybe even borrow a spare TV to test with.

@Sampike999 How old is that aerial? The reason I ask, is that older ones were not really good enough for digital TV. Also, I tried to get a good signal (years ago now), with a loft mounted aerial, and it was no good at all. I had to have a chimney mounted one, AND on a 2 foot mast, AND a signal amplifier, as the transmitters were about 18 to 25 KM or so away. By the way, unless you have a SKY/Foxtel/FETCH TV, or 4K APPLE TV box, you will NOT YET get ANY actual 4K transmissions on terrestrial Freeview TV, you will be lucky to get 1080P, some are only720P (but they still call it "HD". The TV WILL upscale, but it is not perfect, and it WILL all need a GOOD STRONG signal so as not to have to cope with signal noise. As regards the signal dropping when you plug in the HDMI cable, I have never heard of that happening, so I suspect a hardware issue in the BH amp device.

@Shivaraman Balu Some users of buggy apps (like zee5 etc) that go to the internet for content frequently, might benefit from a minor change to the WiFi or Network connection settings. First, disable IPV6 (not needed on home networks), then change the DNS setting to 8.8.8.8 (this is the default Google DNS server).

@Apulat The 05.05.70 is the latest/highest you can get for that older model (2014?) TV. The hardware components and chip-sets in it limit the firmware and WebOS levels that it can go to.

@Sampike999 I am a bit confused about your setup. The BH7440P has THREE HDMI ports, 2 inputs and 1 output. Presumably the 2 INPUTS are used for the XBOX and PS4. If the HDMI OUTPUT is going to the TV,then this should cary the sound EITHER WAY if it and the TV are ARC/eARC connected and fully supported (by that, I mean when a DVD is playing, then sound goes FROM the player TO the TV, and when the TV is providing the programme source, sound then goes from the TV INTO the Home Theatre system, just like a normal AVR). Therefore I think your should NOT need the TOSLINK/Optical cable AS WELL, and I think that may be the problem (unless there is some other technical issue or need for it). Try this. Remove the optical cable, then keep the HDMI OUT to TV cable connected, then in the TV settings, ensure you set the SOUND output mode to HDMI, and NOT optical. Then power down (unplug, NOT just standby) the TV AND the BH7440P, turn on the BH first, then the TV, then retest. By the way, I still think that the SV9143 indoor antenna might be an issue, if you can get a roof mounted antenna, it would be best.

@Arthur Dent Sound Bar: The good thing about sound bars (good ones anyway), is that it is all self-contained, and you have all speakers you need (a 3.1 unit wil get you Left, Centre, Right, and a Subwoofer for those film explosions/effects/low bass sounds, that you can put anywhere in the front sound-stage usually). The slightly negative is that some do not have the "fine" controls you might like to tweak the sound settings to suit your room, your ears, and your listening tastes exactly (compared with a good AV Receiver/AMP). I see good reviews of this LG one, but if you get one that has a "Clear Voice" setting, or you can use the "clear voice" setting on some LG TV's, that will "carry through" on the HDMI cable to the unit, and get you better dialogue via the centre speaker: https://www.lg.com/au/sound-bars/lg-SN6Y

@Sampike999 Try turning off the HDMI-CEC control for the HDMI port that is causing the issue. It will be called "Simplink" in LG-speak. If that is still a problem, try then also turning off the "Quick start+ option on the TV settings, as I hear this can cause odd issues. To do that: Press the Home/Smart button on your remote to bring up your launcher bar. Click the Settings icon in the top-right. Choose the All Settings option at the bottom. Choose the General menu from the left. Under Quick Start +, set it to Off. SIMPLINK is usually under the General settings:

@Sampike999 Firstly, indoor antennas are RARELY good enough for Digital HD, unless you are about 2K from the transmitter (even if amplified)! Best get a PROPER roof antenna. When you plug in any HDMI souce, the HDMI-CEC kicks in, and the TV will GO to that input. Did you try changing inputs back to the Freeview+ (Live TV)? Is the HDMI input marked as ARC or eARC on the back of the BH7440P by the way?

@Greg Bryant Most likely a firmware bug, and complex timing issue. New features are often buggy for a while until all the variations (changing standards, one device/input not playing nice with the TV, or not following proper, published standards, causing possible unexpected problems and timing issues - sometimes called a "race condition"). Have you checked that your CX model has the latest firmware? I thought I had seen that was fixed one a recent update? What is your EXACT model, and what firmware do you have?

@Khamikaze It seems a lot of users are having trouble in the UPNP/DLNA area, for some Android TV's as well. Many routers have UPNP disabled becuase of security concerns, so you might need to see if : 1) it is re-enabled in your router, 2) it is enabled in your windows settings or services, so that all the devices that need it, are seen. https://www.vlchelp.com/access-media-upnp-dlna/ Using streams MIGHT work, but it is NINE steps, seems very cumbersome! https://videoconverter.wondershare.com/vlc/stream-vlc-to-tv.html It seems that the UPNP networked devices settings was moved or removed between VLC 2.x and 3.x, have you reached out to VLC support to ask about your issues? Otherwise, give this a try, as a VLC alternative (Wondershare Uniconverter): https://videoconverter.wondershare.com/vlc/play-dlna-content-using-vlc.html

@Arthur Dent As @George Hofmeister has already pointed out, downloading of file types not compatible with the TV operating system will be blocked, as any attempted use of such files would NOT work, and produce confusing error messages for the user. Any operating system for ANY device (TV, router, Set-top-box etc.) would HAVE to protect itself from abuse, otherwise it could be rendered inoperative. I think you might be trying to compare WebOS, and a smart TV with PC-like attributes, but it is like chalk and cheese comparisons. In any event, Apple devices are VERY restrictive of what can/cannot be installed, as THAT OS is a closed system.

@Arthur Dent I agree with you about the TV sound. Many TV models have "tinny" sound, dues to the space limitations, and use of "Piezo" speakers. To get better sound and dialogue, you might want to invest in a good quality Sound Bar (with a centre speaker), or better still an AVR or AV amp. Some have extra functionality, like the one below, but a lower end Yamaha like my RX-V385 works fine: The Yamaha RX-V6A AV Receiver seems to have good specs and reviews, but many do not need all the features (as it is about $AUD 1100 here): Wi-Fi, Bluetooth®, AirPlay 2, Spotify Connect and MusicCast multi-room audio - Dolby Atmos® with height virtualization, Voice control with Alexa and Google Assistant devices. *Availability varies by region - MusicCast Surround capable - add MusicCast 20 or MusicCast 50 speakers to create wireless surround sound. The main thing I wanted a modern AVR for my TV setup, was to concentrate the (sometimes awful) dialoge on films and some TV series, to be intelligible, and this can be done via a variety of settings (although still might not cope with some BBC dramas that suffer from "Mumble-Gate" - Google it to see what was reported). The modern "acting method" of "natural dialogue" is the bain of the Sound Engineer's job, where they dont "project the voice", so a lot is lost to wind noise, and natural background noise, and that damn "incidental music" that some idiot plays over the dialogue. OK, rant over, but you get the idea - a good Centre Speaker is a must.

@Khamikaze Please post your TV model, as some older LG TV's do not handle DLNA stuff, and external multi-media that well. If you update your PC/Laptop to Windows 10, and ensure it has the latest feature Update (20H2), I hear reports that it is very good with "projecting" its screen to many TV models, so may work well using that as your Multimedia playback source. It is best to ensure that it is on the same WiFi band (2.4GHz or 5GHz) as the TV. Just ensure that "media streaming" is turned on in Windows 10 settings (put it onto the search box to get to it quickly) , and that all devices are turned on that you need to stream from/to, and that they all have the ALLOW ticked on for those that you need to use, in the GUI choice window for detected devices.