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@Janusz Łaski Ensure that your Windows 10 device is at least at OS version 20H1, or better still 20H2. They have improved the casting/projecting software, to make it more reliable.

@Montino Have you reported this to your country LG support directly? This is only a peer-to-peer enthusiasts forum, and has no direct reporting to LG itself. It may be a buggy app/player, so they might not be aware.

@anton de Freitas What model LG do you have, and are you on the latest Firmware?

@Gerry H. I agree, that is a hassle. As this is only a peer-to-peer advice forum, and has no connection to LG, you will have to report this direct to your country LG support. By the way, have you checked that you have the latest firmware for your TV? What model is it?

@Stephen Davies The "weakest link" in your setup is still going to be with the sound I am afraid. A modern/new AVR (such as my Yamaha RX-V385, 100 watts peak) states 70 watts across 2 channels, but you can "soft limit" the volume by having your MAX set to say -20DB in the Sound settings, so as not to over-drive your 50W speakers. You can get 4K and UHD via a FETCH Mighty set-top-box, and watch what you want, but if you get a Blu-Ray player, you will have to rent or purchase, and I think that works out quite expensive over say a 12-month period, versus a one-off FETCH box purchase, and LOTS of choice (extra channel packs at only $6 per month) with 20 or 30 free movies per month (depending on country). Your 4K UHD will be a GREAT picture, but mediocre sound, and unclear dialogue unless you get at least 3.1 sound and centre speaker.

@Robin S Maybe the WebOS browser is not good enough to do that. Try logging in the SAME ACCOUNT details on another device (laptop/iPAD etc) and agree to the terms on that. If the choice is ACCOUNT based (hopefully) rather than DEVICE based (not good), then maybe you can get it to accept then (it may want to put cookies in the browser so it "knows" you have accepted the details prior, and allows a better login experiance next time, on the TV)? Ovbiously you should "accept cookies" on the TV browser if it asks, as these are mostly benign and helpful, and can often keep you logged in (very handy).

@Pekka This sounds like a deficiency in the mytuner app. You should not have to maintain the the services address lists (or is this a "normal" thing for new stations?) Forgive my ignorance of this, but I have never used this app. Maybe you can contact the APP developers?

@Stephen Davies Sure, I know what you mean, you have to watch the spending on luxuries and "boys toys" these days, and job uncertainties. I had to wait until I had retired before getting some half-decent HiFi. Have you considered a Soundbar? These have improved a lot these days, with the use of modern electronics and firmware/software embedded. I have seen the LG SN4 soundbar advertised on Amazon UK (£175), and $275 at Retrovision Australia, and it has a high star rating. It supports HDMI. https://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-SN4-Sound-Bar/dp/B086DXHRNB/ref=pd_lpo_504_t_0/257-7990909-1582701

@Johnny G Use a device like iPad, or laptop/PC, and "cast" or "project" the screen to the TV. For a Windows 10 device, ensure you have the latest 20H2 feature update.

@Stephen Davies The optical "Toslink" cable ports limit the decoding possibilities (no ATMOS, Dolby DD etc), and only HDMI does the full range of sound decoding methods. In any event, you really need a centre speaker to get good dialogue from TV sound. I changed my old Marantz for a Yamaha RX-V385, and although low-end, it gives lots of options to enhance the dialogue, and adjust the "DPL MOVIE" setting and equaliser, to centre and enhance the dialogue. Where some inputs don't always follow proper HDMI-CEC rules (e.g. Foxtel iQ2 box), the "scene" buttons one the Yamaha remote are great for just a one press to get all the settings for specific inputs (press and hold to remember your setting that you did for a particular input device, just one time). Use HDMI ARC or eARC and 2.1 cables to/from TV for best results.

@Stephen Davies To be honest, I think Bluetooth Speakers are OK with iPhone an iPad users, and other than the Magic Remotes, the Blutooth interface should not be used. For good TV surround sound, you cannot beat a good AVR.

@mlo Try this: Shut Off ACR on LG TVs CR-Electronics-Inline-Smart-TV-Snooping-Features-LGLivePlus-09-19.webp

@Pekka First, please post your TV model number. Second, please let us know how you are receiving these YLE stations (i.e. is it via a normal antenna through the Freeview channels, or an APP, or via an ISP provided fibre cable - where some estates are multi-node "fibre", and some commercial providers have TV frequencies, Internet, AND some "cable TV" frequencies like Foxtel as we have in our country). If antenna, how good is it, and how far away from the transmitter are you? Thirdly, please be aware that this is NOT a site run by LG, it is merely a peer-to-peer enthusiasts forum for LG TV owners to post issues, comments and possible workarounds.

@Colin Todd Have you checked that you are on the latest firmware for your TV? The latest is 03.21.36 dated 25/1/21, so it is very recent. Also see if the app will get an update notification when you select it.

@mac It sounds more like a router (network) issue rather than a TV issue. First, can you post your router make and model, and your country and area, and your ISP company. Do you have the ability to log into this router as admin? Secondly, is this a FTTP (Fibre to the premises), or one of those "HFC" setups (Hybrid Fibre Coaxial)? By the way, the 5GHz WiFi band is capable of much faster connection speeds than the 2.4 (so don't disable the 5GHz), BUT it will depend on the distance between the TV and the router, AND what channel you are using within that band (as there may be other neighbours all using, say 44, and you might be on that too, causing signal quality issues. Also, avoid using a channel number above 100, as some TV's do not work well with that. The channel numbers are in the WiFi advanced settings for each band. You can try channel 36. To check signal quality, and other channels interfering/clashing with yours, use your laptop, and download this utility, unzip it in its own folder, and double click on the executable (your home network SSID's will show up as the strongest ones usually : https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html

@JRM I know what you mean about the difference in some key APPS and players. I understand that LG did not renew some agreements in 2020 with the Freeview consortium, so could not put those apps in the LG store, or pre-loaded, so affected a lot of 2020 and 2021 models. Very short-sighted, and I suspect driven by accountants decisions rather than tech ones (ACCOUNTS: the department that knows the cost of everything, and the value of nothing)!

@JRM Not sure of the age of your Humax, but it SOUNDS like it is following the HDMI-CEC control specs well, as that is what I would expect. If you do not want this to happen, look at the TV settings, for the HDMI ports, and if you see "Simplink" or similar, that is the HDMI-CEC, try turning it off. However, by doing that you will lose the ability for auto turn on/off. You could experiment to see if there is a similar HDMI setting on the Humax, turn that off but have the TV Simplink ON, to see if you can "selectively" get what you want (but I am doubtful).

@Arthur Dent I had an advert in an email for this LG Soundbar in OZ, but Amazon UK has it for £175. Here is the link in case it is of interest: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-SN4-Sound-Bar/dp/B086DXHRNB/ref=pd_lpo_504_t_0/257-7990909-1582701

@Nicole L Di you try turning off QuickStart+ on your TV? some owners have found this can fix it.

I am sure it was not intended to be related to any odd bugs like an irritating "Home" display, but like many firmware updates, "odd" bugs continue to occurr, and I was merely passing on what some other users have found, that turning off that Quick Start setting (that is just supposed to make the TV boot up quicker) can have a beneficial affect. My "gut-feel" is that the Quick Start can prevent some "clearing down" and proper initialisation of certain key internal harware AND software items inside the TV, and result in odd bugs. This is (slightly) analogous to rebooting your laptop instead of just putting it to sleep, as sometimes the previous memory image does NOT come in properly all the time. Have either of you actually tried that, or even tried using the latest firmware that I quoted above (05.0.010)? I fixed the typo by the way. If that latest firmware dated 8/12/2020 applied manually via USB does NOT fix your isse, you will need to report it to your country LG Support, this site cannot fix it for you, it is only a peer-to-peer enthusiasts forum, and has NO influence over LG whatsoever.

This is only a peer to peer enthusiasts site. Did any of you actually complain to LG support directly?

@Francisco Solis Try unplugging all external devices, and try again. If not difference, try a factory reset. If still bad, it is either a "bad" firmware update (turned off TV before completed, thus corrupting the update), or a hardware fault, in which case raise a call with LG to fix it.

@Benjamin63 On some Magic remotes it is marked (123), if not try the Home button, or a Gear (cog) button for settings.

@Ces What do you mean by your Streaming Menu? If yout have some sort of streaming device or set-top-box attached to your TV, and you turn it on first, then most TV's "remember" that last active input, and use that (for HDMI anyway). Did you untick/disable Quick Start+ on yours?

@Alfonso It seems that only the new ThinQ range is properly compatible with Amazon Alexa devices. See: https://www.lg.com/us/experience-tvs/ai-tvs/alexa Other owners on here with more expertise/knowledge than me may be able to add to the list, but I suspect you might need a TV with the latest WebOS to use it.