HDMI ARC Not Working

[Bevb]

I have a NANO91ANA LG TV connected via HDMI to a Yamaha RX-V677 Receiver. Normally when I turn the TV on it also turns the receiver on and I can control volume via the LG remote, whether it is an app on the TV or from another device connected to my receiver (Apple TV or cable box). Now the receiver is not turning on and ARC audio is not working. I think there may have been a software update the other day, but I'm not sure. However, everything was working properly until last night. The last time this happened it seemed to correct itself (it seems to be kind of sporadic), but this time it did not. I do not know what to do to correct this, but it is a major pain as I'm now having to deal with 4 remotes, plus I can't get sound out of my surround speakers when using an app on the TV.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Bevb]

Thank you for your reply. Everything was turned on as it should be, but it just wasn't working. I ended up resetting the TV (per LG Customer Support) and it took care of this. I also replaced my HDMI cable, which didn't solve the issue, but it's a much better one than I had before (that one was old), so I don't mind having done that. 

[Vetald]

if it does not help, pull out the hdmi cord.

[td47]

@Bevb Go to the TV HDMI settings, ensure HDMI-CEC (called SIMPLINK on LG's) is turned on, and ensure it is ALSO on for the Yamaha.

[NateG]

On 6/11/2021 at 7:13 AM, Bevb said:

Thank you for your reply. Everything was turned on as it should be, but it just wasn't working. I ended up resetting the TV (per LG Customer Support) and it took care of this. I also replaced my HDMI cable, which didn't solve the issue, but it's a much better one than I had before (that one was old), so I don't mind having done that. 

We had to resort to using an optical cable for sound because the LG TV's HDMI ARC (even when enabled) simply would not work with our Bose or Yamaha systems (as prior TVs did).

 

[Bevb]

I was wondering about using an optical cable. After changing the HDMI cable it only worked for a few days and nothing I did fixed the issue. LG sent a technician who replaced my motherboard and so far ARC has worked properly. However, I'm still thinking about an optical cable if that would keep it working consistently.

[Bret]

Did you ever find a solution, I too have an LG tv , it will not connect to my bose 900 speaker via hdmi arc. I have not found any solutions I'm hoping someone did 

[Bevb]

I will answer this with yes and no. Because my TV was only a few months old they came and replaced my motherboard, which made a huge difference for a few months. Then it started dropping out. The software updated, and it worked again. Lately it has been reverting back to Internal TV Speaker for no apparent reason, but at least this time I can reset it to eARC and it will work, just not consistently. They were very good with service, so I have no complaints with them. From conversations with others it seems this is an issue with all brands of TVs so I don't really know what the underlying problem is with it being so inconsistent. If your TV is still under warranty I would request a service call and see if they can replace your motherboard. You may have to reset it periodically, but at least you should be able to get it to work.

[Jez Brook]

This annoying bug has existed for a while on LG tvs right back to 2017 models and I am sure before that, but I kinda have a working solution.

What you need to do is load up an audio source on HDMI (which ever is you arc arc output) and then once audio format is negotiated then switch back to your TV app such as netflix, etc.  This works 100% of the time.

 

So for example if you have let's say a ps5 or switch connected to your av received turn that on and wait for the av receiver to show a dts, dolby logo etc, I prefer to use my switch because it's the fastest to turn on.  Then just load what ever TV app you want to Netflix, YouTube etc amd you AV receiver (if set up right) will switch to TV and the arc negotiation will work correct and ARC audio will work fine unti you turn off your TV.

Ps turning off the tv doest always break arc, sometimes you turn it on after the above and it works as expected other times it still fails amd you have to perform the above step

Pps, if you can see arc has negotiated but still not audio but maybe you see  pcm logo even though you are using dts, dolby etc to fix that you need to set the to output to the tv then switch it back to hdmi.

Do not use the optical lead, it doesn't support decent audio, most basic 5.1 amd in some cases only stereo.

[Bevb]

I'm going to try your solution. The odd thing is that sometimes this problem resolves itself without my doing anything. If I turn the TV on and it automatically turns on the receiver as well, I know it is going to work. If I have to manually turn the receiver on, I know it isn't working. When it isn't working properly, turning the TV on also turns on my Apple TV, which is fine, but . . . if I'm watching TV instead (HDMI 1) and not Apple TV (HDMI 2) the Apple TV eventually turns itself off and turns the TV off as well. Since the Apple TV is connected to the receiver, I'm not even sure how/why this happens. When I cut the cord for cable in a few months it will be a moot point as I'll just stream anyway. I rarely use the apps on the TV and prefer Apple TV or Fire TV.  However, I probably would use some of the available  apps if I could ever make it work. And you are right that turning the TV off sometimes breaks it, even when it is working properly.

[Jez Brook]

13 hours ago, Bevb said:

I'm going to try your solution. The odd thing is that sometimes this problem resolves itself without my doing anything. If I turn the TV on and it automatically turns on the receiver as well, I know it is going to work. If I have to manually turn the receiver on, I know it isn't working. When it isn't working properly, turning the TV on also turns on my Apple TV, which is fine, but . . . if I'm watching TV instead (HDMI 1) and not Apple TV (HDMI 2) the Apple TV eventually turns itself off and turns the TV off as well. Since the Apple TV is connected to the receiver, I'm not even sure how/why this happens. When I cut the cord for cable in a few months it will be a moot point as I'll just stream anyway. I rarely use the apps on the TV and prefer Apple TV or Fire TV.  However, I probably would use some of the available  apps if I could ever make it work. And you are right that turning the TV off sometimes breaks it, even when it is working properly.

The "solution" really does work 100% of the time , sadly I've never managed to work out what is at fault ,the TV, or the AV receiver.  I am confident it is not the HDMI cables, I've tried cheap, I've tried expensive, its a placebo effect when you change them and it works for a bit but it will fail again.  As does turning off features on your tv or factory resetting the TV.  I'm about 90% sure its the TV which fails to negotiate or even transmit any data over the hdmi but I can't proof this and LG will always pass the book to someone else.  I'd love it if I could intercept the full hdmi signal and break it down.

So in my case on my AV receiver I have all sorts plugged in, an xbox, switch, ps5, nvidia shield snes classic, wii.  If I turn the Switch on, my AV receiver will auto turn to the Switch input and the TV auto changes to HDMI2 and then the little logo will pop up on the AV receiver to show its receiving an audio stream be it pcm, dts or dolby.  I then will press the Netflix button (or Amazon or shortcut button to Disney+ etc) and my AV receiver will change from Switch to TV and the letter ARC will display on the receiver. 

Like you mentioned sometimes, it works as if there is no fault, I will turn the TV on using the Netflix button, and ARC just works, some annoying times i'll turn the TV on with the netflix button, the TV turns on, Netflix loads then almost instantly it switches to HDMI2, and then the PS5 auto turns on ... !

I just think Arc, HDMI-CEC etc is just bugged believe, other control codes are being sent by devices in invalid formats its just not a great tech.

PS I prefer the Netflix app on the TV vs some version on on other streaming devices, mainly because of the supported audio formats, dolby vision and resolutions which aren't always fully supported when using a connected device.  Also you then don't need an extra device switched on just to stream.

[JohnBS]

Replying because this is the first hit on google. I just got my new C1 yesterday and spent a lot of time trying to mess around with every single setting on the TV and Denon surround sound. The answer is painfully simple. 

 

ARC is HDMI 2, not the first one. Move the HDMI cable and your problems go away instantly. 

 

NB: This answer assumes you have up to date HDMI cables and  a set up that was previously working 

[Jez Brook]

1 hour ago, JohnBS said:

Replying because this is the first hit on google. I just got my new C1 yesterday and spent a lot of time trying to mess around with every single setting on the TV and Denon surround sound. The answer is painfully simple. 

 

ARC is HDMI 2, not the first one. Move the HDMI cable and your problems go away instantly. 

 

NB: This answer assumes you have up to date HDMI cables and  a set up that was previously working 

 

Trust me it isn't that simple, so many placebos with this TV, people claim to change receivers, use brand new HDMI cables.  We all know HDMI 2 is the only arc hdmi socket.  Thing is when ppl make above changes, its almost as if it reset the TV and for a while it works and you think you have found the cause... only for the issue to return later on.  There is no perm fix sadly and no company is holding their hands up ad admitting fault.  My solution allows ARC to function 100% of the time but is in no way a fix.

[Gustavo Cambronero]

I thought I was the only one having this issue but it seems no. 

I just faced this issue yesterday. I have a Cinema 600 and I had it connected to my LG WebOS 55" TV. This is not a new TV but it has the ARC HDMI. I was working fine but suddenly, it failed yesterday. 

I tried everything, changing the HDMI cable, reseting the TV, reseting the soundbar, nothing happened. I got frustrated so I connected the audio via optical cable.

I was thinking it was an soundbar issue but, after seeing these comments it seems to be an issue with the TVs.

After I set it up, the remote controls the soundbar volume but a prohibition sign appears in the TV meaning I cannot use it as ARC. 

Since I did not know about the issue, I connected a Fire TV Amazon in the same HDMI 2 port and it worked so I was thinking that it was my soundbar the issue but thanks to your messages, I feel good this is the TV and not the soundbar.

I have changed twice the wifi motherboard and it failed again so I decided not to change it again. It seems like the LG TV are not that good and many issues occur with them.

[leosluna]

Jst having the exact same issue with LG C1 65 inches and Sony HT-RT3. it worked for me previously on another tv the same way. It is kinda frustrating. I'll follow this thread in case anyone else finds a solution 

[Jez Brook]

10 hours ago, leosluna said:

Jst having the exact same issue with LG C1 65 inches and Sony HT-RT3. it worked for me previously on another tv the same way. It is kinda frustrating. I'll follow this thread in case anyone else finds a solution 

Just do exactly as I said and it will work again.  Not a perm fix and annoying but it will work for you.   What I believe the fault is caused by is that loading an app the audio output when set to Auto fail negotiation.  Changing source and then back to the app performs the handshake again and it works.  I reckon it could be fixed if LG changes the Audio setting from PCM/Auto to PCM/Dolby/DTS

[Grandstand]

I've noticed it seems to be directly linked to how many other HDMI cables are plugged in, and if a previously used HDMI device is now inactive/or inputs were switched around. I think the HDMI ARC settings has a bug where it ether continues to attempt to output from a now inactive device, or becomes confused and sends the HDMI Arc signal to a device that has no business getting it, and therefore does not respond. I've noticed that once I'm frustrated enough to pull out all other HDMI cables and only plug in First the ARC  and 2nd the active video source,  It begins to work properly... (until it doesn't again in the next week.)
Super disappointing to hear that the C1's are experiencing it, as I'm on the hunt for an OLED and given these annoying sound issues, I guess I wont be going with an LG

[Jez Brook]

On 12/5/2021 at 4:03 AM, Grandstand said:

I've noticed it seems to be directly linked to how many other HDMI cables are plugged in, and if a previously used HDMI device is now inactive/or inputs were switched around. I think the HDMI ARC settings has a bug where it ether continues to attempt to output from a now inactive device, or becomes confused and sends the HDMI Arc signal to a device that has no business getting it, and therefore does not respond. I've noticed that once I'm frustrated enough to pull out all other HDMI cables and only plug in First the ARC  and 2nd the active video source,  It begins to work properly... (until it doesn't again in the next week.)
Super disappointing to hear that the C1's are experiencing it, as I'm on the hunt for an OLED and given these annoying sound issues, I guess I wont be going with an LG


 

Another red herring.  Most users who experience this issue are using an AV receivers so will actually only have one HDMI input connected to the TV (all there devices connect into there receiver) .  Also as arc/earc data is only sent down one hdmi (often #2) I doubt the TV is getting confused which path to send the data down, programming just doesn't work like that and computers don't get confused.

[Mark Dominic Ordoñez]

For some reason, I found that the ARC being assigned to a different port.  

You guys can try going to All Settings > General > Devices > External Devices > Universal Control Settings 

Select HDMI 4 (where I assume we have our sound bar / device connected).  Click Manage Settings.

I found there what HDMI port ARC was assigned.

I moved my connection to my sound bar/device to that port… and it worked for me.

I am guessing a patch on this is on the works in LG as I am sure there is a reason why Arc/E-arc is labelled to be HDMI 4 on the TV.

[leosluna]

On 12/6/2021 at 9:14 AM, Mark Dominic Ordoñez said:

For some reason, I found that the ARC being assigned to a different port.  

You guys can try going to All Settings > General > Devices > External Devices > Universal Control Settings 

Select HDMI 4 (where I assume we have our sound bar / device connected).  Click Manage Settings.

I found there what HDMI port ARC was assigned.

I moved my connection to my sound bar/device to that port… and it worked for me.

I am guessing a patch on this is on the works in LG as I am sure there is a reason why Arc/E-arc is labelled to be HDMI 4 on the TV.

That wasn't the case with me. As soon as I'm starting to config my home theater on hdmi 4 it only gives me 2 options: optical or headphones and none hdmi arc to pick. I also tried optical because all I want is a simple Dolby 5.1 experience, but instead all I have is 2.1 LPCM via hdmi arc. Yes, hdmi arc is working on plug 2 but is not registering 5.1.

[rchan]

I would like to +1 to @Jez Brook suggestion: I connect all devices through the AVR but once I connected an iPad via a USB-C to HDMI dongle to HDMI 3. I left the dongle/cable attached even though the iPad was no longer there — subsequently the TV was stuck and Simplink and ARC from TV apps were no longer working.

After resetting both TV and AVR CEC/ARC were still not working(!) - when I reattached the iPad and played some audio, everything came to life again and I could switch to TV apps. Come to think of it: it might have been "solved" if I removed the dongle as that seems to be some sort of smart/active device.

TL;DR - if you use ARC and have other devices connected via the TV (as HDMI-switcher) it might well get "stuck" at the last input/device. This is an OLED C1, BTW.