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By Andy_Roider
As per the subject line, I have had a USB drive connected to my television for over four years, but for the past few days it has not been recognising the directories where my films and music are organised, and is displaying EVERYTHING in a single list of over a thousand files.
It is a 1TB drive (half of the maximum 2TB allowed) with a power supply, formatted as NTFS, and not completely full.
I have checked the drive and it has no bad sectors. I have tried connecting it to both USB ports and all the files are in the permitted format (avi, mkv, mp4, mp3, etc.).
I have also tried another 1TB drive, but the result is the same.
Do I need to reconfigure something in the television settings?
It would be a significant loss if I cannot resolve this issue.
Thank you in advance for your responses.
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By aholloway17
Hi All,
My TV will only display a good pisture when using 1080 sdr 30hz. Anything different and certain content will appear washed out, blue or green tint on setup and streaming pages. I believe my TV is connected correctly as the picture is fine so long as it is 1080 sdr. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance
My
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By Dmytro Fadyeyenko
My 65UQ70 TV started to ignore my remote yesterday. After some experiments I've found that it only reacts to double clicks now. So I have to use double clicks for any action - move through menus, launch apps etc, single clicks are just ignored.
Resetting the TV to factory settings didn't help.
I tried to google the issue and found that this might be an issue with the remote, but I can't find how to reset the remote of my model. Combinations like Home+Back (for Magic Remote) or 2+8 (for some old style remotes) don't work for my model, neither removing batteries and pressing all buttons does.
My remote seems to be AKB76040302, a photo from the Internet is below.
So, how do I reset it?
Some other things to mention:
- The pulses of the remote are not visible through a cell phone camera, so I couldn't check if it only sends signals to the TV after double clicks, or the TV is enforcing this issue. UPDATE: a cellphone sees the pulses in darkness, and a pulse is sent on each press, not only on doubles. So it should be TV OS issue, not the remote issue.
- This started to happen after I have updated the software and connected a sound bar with optical cable, though I believe the last action isn't related to the issue.
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By News Reporter
With Uncompromised, Low-Lag Performance at 4K 144Hz, LG’s Advanced Wireless
Technology Sets a New Standard for Clutter-Free Gaming and Home Cinema
SEOUL, July 3, 2025 — LG Electronics (LG) has announced the global rollout of its newest wireless OLED TV series, the LG OLED evo M5 – a TV that combines LG’s advanced True Wireless technology1 with the industry-leading OLED picture quality of the G52 to reimagine the TV experience in a clutter-free setup.
The M5 sets a new gold standard for premium wireless home entertainment. LG’s True Wireless technology eliminates the cable connection between the TV and external devices, thanks to LG’s proprietary Zero Connect Box,3 a visually lossless wireless video and audio transmission solution. Delivering ultra-smooth content with low input lag up to 4K 144Hz,4 the M5 boasts performance on par with a wired connection.
The M5 offers next-level wireless technology for competitive gamers demanding ultra-responsive performance. Building on the legacy of LG’s OLED evo series, the M series is the only wireless TV compatible with both NVIDIA G-SYNC® and AMD FreeSync Premium to deliver a tear-free, stutter-free gaming experience even during fast-paced action up to 4K 144Hz. Certified by Intertek for Qualified Gaming Performance, the M5 features an ultra-fast response time of less than 0.1ms,5 delivering smooth, vibrant visuals in razor-sharp clarity.
The M5 is the optimal TV for those seeking both a superb gaming experience and a more flexible, cleaner setup. A conventional TV offers multiple ports for commonly used HDMI devices like gaming consoles on the back of the screen, causing viewers to walk to the TV to power on devices or switch inputs. But on the M5, these ports can be found on the Zero Connect Box, enabling consoles to be placed within reach – on a nearby shelf, inside a cabinet, or next to the sofa. As a result, there are no cables between the TV and entertainment devices.
The M5 is also a top-tier choice for home cinema enthusiasts, featuring Dolby Vision, Dolby Atmos and Filmmaker® Mode with Ambient Light Compensation for cinematic accuracy. Powered by the α (Alpha) 11 AI Processor Gen2, it offers enhanced depth and detail with AI Picture Pro, while AI Sound Pro enables immersive 11.1.2-channel audio. LG’s upgraded Brightness Booster Ultimate technology boosts screen brightness by up to three times compared to conventional OLED models.6 The M5 has also received UL Solutions’ “Perfect Black” and “Perfect Color” verification, along with certifications from Intertek for 100 percent color fidelity and 100 percent color volume. A “Perfect” grade by TÜV Rheinland7 further affirms the M5’s capability to maintain clarity even in bright indoor conditions.
With a flush-fit design and no visible cable clutter, the LG OLED evo M5 delivers a truly immersive entertainment experience with the uncompromised performance of a wired setup.
“For 12 consecutive years, LG has led the global OLED TV market and we are opening a new era of television with our leadership in wireless TV,” said Park Hyoung-sei, president of the LG Media Entertainment Solution Company. “The OLED evo M5 exemplifies our commitment to innovation and our pursuit of the ultimate in premium home entertainment.”
The LG OLED evo M5 series will roll out globally in 97, 83, 77 and 65-inch screen sizes. To discover more about LG’s wireless OLED TVs, visit
link hidden, please login to view. # # #
1 Wireless transmission refers to the transferring of video and audio signals between a TV screen and the Zero Connect Box. Visually lossless, based on internal test results with ISO/IEC 29170-2 and measurement results may vary depending on connection status.
2 VRR support varies by model: M5 series (83, 77, 65-inch at 144Hz, 97-inch at 120Hz), G5 series (83, 77, 65, 55-inch at 165Hz, 97-inch at 120Hz, 48-inch at 144Hz).
3 The TV and the Zero Connect Box each plug into the wall for power.
4 LG 2025 OLED M5 series TVs up to 83 inches (screen size) provide support for 4K@144Hz. The 97-inch OLED M5 supports 4K@120Hz.
5 LG OLED displays been certified as “0.1 response times (Gray to Gray)” and “Qualified Gaming Performance” by Intertek.
6 Applies to 65/77/83-inch M5 models, compared to the same sizes of conventional OLED models (B5 series) in a 10 percent window.
7 LG 2025 65-inch M5 has received TÜV certification for True Visual Experience with Indoor lighting. True Visual Experience certification by TÜV means that the product achieved the highest grade “Perfect” in all five metrics for ambient visual quality (blackness, vividness, perceptual contrast length, gradation precision and ambient contrast modulation) when tested in accordance with IDMS 11.5 Ring-light Reflection standards up to 500lux.
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By pivotCE
Well, it’s 2024 and technology continues to advance. The TouchPad isn’t new by any means, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be slightly modernized to be more convenient today. Specifically, it is entirely possible to convert the TouchPad’s Micro USB port to USB C for charging and USB storage access. I’ll show you how.
This is a tough mod which requires micro-soldering and modifying a PCB which you will have a hard time sourcing a replacement for without buying another TouchPad. Proceed at your own peril.
Tools for the Job
To do this mod you’ll need a few things for tools and parts. Here’s a list of what I used:
– Needle nose pliers/tweezers
– USB C boards with 5.1k resistors
link hidden, please login to view
– Soldering iron, solder, flux and a hot air station
– Flush cuts
– Dremel with cutting or sanding wheel
– 28 AWG wire or smaller. 30 AWG is pretty good but any wire around 0.25mm to 0.5mm should work.
– Small file and screwdriver set
– Painter’s and kapton tape
– Metal spudger Disassemble the TouchPad
This is where you’re going to want to get that metal spudger out and be very careful not to snap clips. I can’t explain it better than iFixit already did so go check out their and then come back here.
Modify the USB Connector Board by Removing the Micro Port
There are a few ways to remove the Micro USB port. I added a bunch of flux and coated all the connectors in fresh leaded solder and then used a hot air station set to 800 degrees while wiggling the port very slightly with needle nose pliers. You don’t have to be particularly careful here so if you want to cut the port off with the dremel or the flush cuts or just rip it off with the pliers, (I don’t recommend it but…) that’s fine. We’re not using the pads it’s soldered to anyway. You should STILL be careful not to crack the board. Go slow. Be patient.
Trim the USB C Board
We need to expose the USB C port a bit on this board so let’s cut it down. Grab the painter’s tape and flip the USB C board upside down. You’ll see a small trace between the front and rear anchor points on the right side, which we don’t want to cut. Mark the tape just on the other side of that trace like I did. Dremel along the tape line until you get to the port. You can then use needle nose pliers, a flat file, and/or flush cuts to remove the rest of the board from the bottom of the port.
Prepare the USB Connector Board for the USB C Port
We need to slide the port into the old space so grab the painter’s tape again and mark off the area I marked to make room for the USB C port. You can place the port up to it like I did and use that as a guide. Grab your dremel again or a similar tool and cut out what you marked off. When you’re done, the USB C port should slide easily into the groove. It will fit tighter when we add the kapton tape in a later step.
Make Room in the TouchPad for the Added Thickness of the USB C Board
The USB C board will sit underneath the USB connector board so we have to make room by trimming away the plastic underneath. For this you’ll need to use flush cuts or any other tool you have to chip away. You could use the dremel for this if you’d like. Be careful to not go beyond the first inner layer. Beyond that is the outer shell of the TouchPad. There’s no real method here, just cut out the screw posts and chip away. Use the pictures below as a guide.
Cut the USB C Hole from the Old Micro USB Hole
To open the micro USB hole enough to fit the USB C port, take a rounded file to the left and right of both sides and just file a little bit at at time. Use a small flat file to widen the top and bottom of the port. This process is just trial and error. File a little and then grab the USB C board to test. The port will need to fit inside the hole a bit so you can push it through from the outside to test the hole size if that’s easier. Note: the USB C board will likely not rest on the bottom of the TouchPad and will float a little. This is good because it makes room for your wires and a little kapton tape underneath.
Tape the USB C Board
Since we hacked away at the USB connector board it’s possible we’ve provided the perfect environment for creating shorts! Oh no! So get out the kapton tape because we’re going to add a layer on both sides. You’ll see how I did it on one side below. Do it on both sides. You’ll also notice how I did not cover those two small square contacts just at the bottom of the tape. That’s because we need them.
Where To Get Power and Data
You’ll see the diagrams below which I’ve marked with VBUS (power), data in, data out, and ground. Obviously the old port is gone and most if its pads, but I wanted to show that both sides of the board have the connections. You could possibly do this mod differently, and if you so choose, hopefully these help.
A quick note: this mod can be done with a 4-pin USB C port. That would give you power and data just like with the USB C board I’m using in this guide, however, a 4-pin USB C board will not charge with a USB C charger (ie USB 3.1). The board I’m using in this guide provides the ability to use any charger because it comes pre-built with 5.1k resistors wired to CC1 and CC2 to ground. This is the trick that tells the USB C chargers to send power to the device.
Solder the USB C Board into the USB Connector Board
This isn’t a “how to solder tutorial” so hit up youtube and find a good tutorial that works for you. In general though, use flux, pre-tin the VBUS, Ground, D-, and D+ pads on the USB C board as well as the points on the bottom of the USB connector board.
Now for the tricky part, I didn’t list it in the Tools section above, but it would really help to have magnification or a digital microscope for this. I have these things and I used both. You might have steadier hands and better eyes than me. The picture below was my first attempt of the three TouchPads I modded, and it’s not my best soldering work, but fundamentally, this is what yours should look like.
Put the Pieces Together
You can use a bit of kapton tape to secure the wires in place a bit more if you’d like but it’s not required. It won’t short since it’s only plastic underneath. This is all press fit into place, but if you’re uncomfortable with that, you can add a little hot glue under the board as you put it back into the TouchPad. You don’t have to put the metal shield back into place if you don’t want to. It’s all a pretty tightly fit and if you find the TouchPad screen isn’t as flush as you want, just leave the metal shield off. A little kapton tape right on top would be fine instead.
Congrats, You Now Have USB C
I did this mod on three TouchPads and each one works fine with any USB charger I could find, including USB C port having USB 3.1 chargers. I can also confirm the data connection works just like it should to connect via USB mode on PC. Sadly, this doesn’t do anything to stop webOS from telling you the charger you’re using isn’t the original TouchPad barrel charger, but you can make a custom cable to stop that which I’ll cover in a future article on pivotCE.
#webOS4ever
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Question
nmb1970
Hi,
Just got an LG 55UJ630V and I'm quite pleased. but yesterday tried connecting my gopro directly with usb cable and the tv only sees photos and not movies.
The GoPro records .MP4 h264 clips so the format is not a problem.
If I copy the .mp4 files to a pen drive the tv sees them ok.
Getting the GoPro microSD on a card reader does not work cause the GoPro formats 64GB cards in exFat format.
I know that the gopro usb connection is not usb mass storage device but PTP. but it should work anyway...
Any tips?
10 answers to this question
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