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By Raxo
Add the option to turn off mouse acceleration. I think I would fins it much easier to aim the pointer if I could disable it. I always disable it on computers. You can just add it next to the pointer speed setting under General > System > Additional Settings > Pointer Options
Two other settings I think would make sense to have would be a setting to disable the shake-remote-to-show-pointer feature. Although I like it I can sometimes find it annoying, so why not let the users decide. I always hate it when there aren't settings for things like these.
The other setting would be to disable the pointer completely as many users have written that they want to disable it.
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By Tosspot
I really love lg tvs hence I now own 3 but what I can’t get past that drives me crazy is any remote turns all tvs on of change Chanel etc and when I’m watching something and the wife changes channel in kitchen tv and the lounge tv chance drives me crazy I’ve unpaired and repaired individually and it still has the same problem
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By GOM43
Last week a LG service person visited our home. After resetting our new LG TV, he went to his van and returned with a large remote controller. We asked what it was for and he told us it was to access settings that the standard controllers could not do. But would not tell us what it did.
Do you know what it can do?
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By Pranay Mokida
Issue
Whenever I start any video—whether it’s streaming apps, HDMI input, or a USB movie—the SC9S plays for a minute or two, then suddenly loses connection. Audio instantly falls back to the TV’s internal speakers, and the TV acts like the soundbar no longer exists on the eARC port. The soundbar display still shows “eARC” (sometimes flips to “OPT/ARC” for a second), but no sound.
Temporary Fix
The only thing that gets audio back is power-cycling the TV (standby isn’t enough; full reboot required). After that, the bar reconnects… until the next random dropout. This can happen multiple times during a single movie, which is a great way to kill the vibe.
What I’ve Tried
New HDMI 2.1-certified cable (same result, so original cable seems fine).
Disabled Quick Start+ and Simplink in the TV settings, then re-enabled.
Factory-reset both TV and soundbar.
Tested ARC instead of eARC—works, but no Atmos and same occasional dropout.
Plugged the soundbar into a different power outlet (in case of power spike).
Observed Patterns
Dropouts happen sooner with Dolby Atmos or DTS content, but even stereo YouTube videos eventually cut out.
No obvious heat buildup; bar is in open air, front facing.
Happens whether soundbar is wall-mounted or on its stand.
Questions for the Hive Mind
Anyone else seeing eARC instability with the SC9S on the UP77 series?
Could this be a handshake timing bug on the TV’s HDMI board?
Any hidden service-menu tweaks or firmware betas worth trying?
Should I just RMA the bar, or is the TV the real diva here?
Appreciate any insight—my couch and I thank you in advance!
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Question
datdarndot
I have a one year-old model 43UK6500AUA, with standard remote only (no Magic Remote). I can find no mention anywhere of Time Machine. Does this model not include Time Machine II functionality? Must one have a Magic Remote to reveal this feature? I am also baffled by numerous references in the forum to using HDMI , which should not be necessary if using the TV's built-in tuner, as I intend to do. There is also mention of using USB3 for the external HDD. My TV has only two USB ports : USB1 and USB2 — or does this refer to USB 3.0 version (as opposed to USB 2.0)?
3 answers to this question
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