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By Leonard King
Having eARC engaged in the TV settings and sending Atmos etc to an eARC enabled Samsung sound bar causes the sound bar to power down after appx 18 minutes and diverts the audio to the TV's inbuilt sound system. Disengaging eARC on the TV resolves the problem and still sends Atmos via ARC. This has only occurred since the most recent software upgrade. Anyone else experiencing this?
I bought a K600 logitech keyboard knowing it is supported in Web OS 3.5 and higher. It works on Netflix and web browser but not in Youtube app.
I am really frustrated, being able to search in youtube from my keyboard was my main goal with this purchase.
By Andrew Robinson
We recently got a new LG 43" TV for our bedroom (43UN7300AUD). There are no inputs for this TV as we only want to use it for streaming services (Netflix and Amazon). There is no Antenna hooked up to the TV either since we don't want to watch LiveTV on it (the only Antenna we have is hooked up in our family room to a FireTV Recast, not to a smartTV).
When we turn on the TV it auto-tunes to channel 2-0. Since there is no antenna, this is just loud snow. Even when we go to the dashboard, it defaults to showing liveTV and hence more snow & noise. Even though the LG TV stations are enabled and working it will always tune to 2-0 when I turn the TV on. I've tried going through the menu and cannot find any setting to change this. I'd be happy removing or disabling "LiveTV" as an option and would love it to start with the dashboard with LiveTV not expanded/active. Even clicking on the amazon prime button takes time and we get several seconds of the snow before the smart features startup.
With more and more people only using streaming services, I have to believe the TV supports our use case and should not try to ever use liveTV.
Is there a setting I missed in the menu to stop it from always trying to go to liveTV when I turn the TV on? Or at the very least make it tune to an LG channel on start to avoid the snow?
Update: of course, right after posting thisI did find that you can use the amazon prime button on the remote to turn the TV on. I still would like to fix the dashboard playing snow and would prefer to have the TV not try to use liveTV if I use the power button to turn the TV on.
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For those who get frequent WiFi connection drop-outs, I picked this bit of useful info from another forum. Note that this may well apply to many other LG models than the C9, as they often use common WiFi internal cards/modules:
Problem: C9 [or other models] will lose the wireless connection and you have to reconnect daily (but wired is stable);
Conditions: TV is connected to a 5GHz router;
Cause: (1) the router may be unstable on the 5GHz band [possibly too far from router]; (2) the router has the 5GHz band set on a higher channel - over 100;
Resolution: (1) change the TV to the 2.4GHz band
(2) set the channel [in the ROUTER advanced WiFi settings]!! for the 5GHz band below 100 (ex. 40-50) - [channel 36 is often OK]."
By Allan B
I am in the process of moving my WiFi to a 4G carrier. I was testing the 4G modem and needed to move back to the Broadband modem for a day - I found that the BB password was not kept on the LGWEBOS TV. Similarly when I moved back to the $G modem I had to re-enter that. This TV is the only device that I have which does not remember passwords
Is there a way of placing a support ticket for a change to the OS
Hi, I have an LG WebOS Smart TV that after the last firmware update the Wi-Fi Connection stop working properly. When I try to connect to my network, it will instantly disconnect or it will freeze my TV.
Model: LG 55UF6450-UA (bought it on November 2015)
Also, I don't know if it is relevant but my TV is a US version that now I have it with me in Costa Rica, Central America.
I've tried everything posted on the internet and forums:
- Connecting to my cellphones hotspot (worked for about 5 min the first time I try it and then stop working and would work again when I tried to reconnect).
- Change the DNS to google's DNS. (Once I was able to do it but didn't fix the issue, and also first I need to be able to connect to a network for the TV to enable the option for changing manually to static ip's).
- Doing factory reset won't fix it.
- Changing the Country/Region/Time zone won't fix it.
- Changing to manual time won't fix it.
- Can't do the downgrade procedure posted on this forum for two reasons: because you need to be able to connect to the wifi or via ethernet and it isn't working, and also I can't find an older versión of my firmware.
I am pretty sure that I need to downgrade or even just do a fresh installation of the actual the firmware, but I can't find the right way to do it. Maybe with an LG service remote? but again, I need to first get on my hands a working firmware version for my TV right?
I have an LG 43UK6300PLB TV, connected via Wifi to my home network.
Now, this may be an abnormal setup, so i get it may be unique, but i have two main wifi hotspots in my home. One from my BT Smart Hub, but i also have a pair of TP-Link Deco P9's running in Access Point mode to offer wider wifi coverage in a mesh setup.
I'd obviously prefer for the TV to connect to the P9 Network as the nearest AP is nearer to the TV that he BT one, but when i do the LG Smart App for some reason cannot see the TV, which it should as the Mesh network is running in AP mode (so alongside the BT DHCP).
Can anyone provide any tips?