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As I was saying, simply resetting and power cycling does not work. Resetting the magic control also does not work. I ordered 3 necro-cannibalized modules from China, and none works either. Since there is a chance that one of them was good still exists, I am beginning to suspect some self-destruct feature. Because USB also still works and what could happen destroying only one USB port(wifi), and not harming all others, connected to the same controller.

LG WiFi modules burn like matches from static, AC surges, or unexpected AC loss. Older model also had bad connectors. It seems, LG uses intentionally weak WiFi-module circuit for phasing out TVs of older non-serviced models. (See Wiki: "Sony timer"). It is very rude, since Philips just uses "grease leaking" remote controls, which become sticky and slimy after 4-5 years, telling you to buy a new TV. On the other hand, Asus uses non-cooled transistor RF switches in their routers, which degrade in 2-4 years, effectively disconnecting the antenna from the transciever...At least LG allows you to watch TV without the magic control.

I have an old LG55UB8500. It is 4K, but not HDR itself. If I am not mistaken, top models were HDR capable. Anyway, recently I tried checking it with X-rite calibrator, and discovered that the RGB colorant points have EXACTLY the sRGB CIE values, which is actually an amazing thing. Most PC monitors have significant deviations from sRGB or any other colorants, even between the panel revisions. I guess, that is because the panel gamut is software-restricted in order to conform the standard exactly, ensuring the correct multimedia representation, and separating it from HDR market. But since I use it generally with PC, and have a calibrator, there is a question. Is it possible to remove the sRGB restriction, and use the full range of the panel primaries?

We had a 40A power breaker overload, and shutdown. After that our 55UB8500 started without Bluetooth and WIFI. First time I revived the WIFI/BT (and magic remote) with the TV hard reset, and waiting for a few hours unconnected. It worked almost 2 days, and WIFI died finally. I tried ordering second-hand WIFI modules from ALiExpress junk stores two times, but every time there is NG/NG in In-Start against WIFI and BT. Of course, I tried resetting it in various combinations. The most confusing thing is that USB works fine, IR works fine, RJ45 works fine! So there should be all the voltages. There are no errors in power log, every time it is a power-button action, or a timeout at the input when PC and Nintendo are shut down. So I have a suspicion that something is bad in the software/deep configuration? How do you think? Is there a way to restore, or a simple way to debug without the service jig? My original unit is configured for Japan with WIFI made in Philipines (if I remember correctly, I need to dig it out from the junk storage box). The junk modules I ordered are Chinese. Made in Philipines and China, I do not know, do they have a regional lock or free to swap.

OK. I didn't wait and just made an In-Stop. What a pain. Expected it to ask for full reset, or just stop the service mode... required to calibrate the screen again. If there is a simpler way to come back to user mode without reset, please share. My child loves playing with remocons and it will surely happen again. I want to be prepared.

I got a WIFI problem on my 55UB8500. In order to understand what's with WiFi, I got a Factory SVC remocon at Amazon. WiFi seems dead (NG/NG). But I accidentally pressed the "P-ONLY" button. It told me to push "EXIT" and "PowerOff" to return. But it did not return to normal operation. - every channel or input switch passes through bright blue screen. - OS system manager does not boot up unless "home" button is pressed at user remocon. - Seems like the blue screen blocks screensaver and backlight dimming. How can I turn the TV back to normal user mode without all that bluescreen staff, with normal system manager boot?