Jez Brook

The other day my 2017 oped panel had a firmware upgrade from 6.00.25 to 6.00.30, curious anyone have any info on what this actually did. My theory is it relates to advertising, or have they closed off the webos sideloading, I cant fijd any info on it at all

1 hour ago, Fennepa said:

This does not work for me. I connected my decoder to one of my input source HDMI ports on the AVR. The decoder disappeared from the on screen menu of the LG TV. In order to watch TV I had to change the input source channel of the AVR. I was then able to adjust the volume with the Magic remote, but no other buttons were working. Pressing the button with the 3 dots give me the “virtual remote” that belongs to the AVR and not the decoder. Ergo, this forces me to start using the remote for the decoder. Situation gets worse if I also connect the N-Switch directly to the AVR, because now I also have to use the AVR remote to switch between 2 input sources (in some occasions).

I don’t understand how I can setup the LG TV to recognize and display all devices that are connected to the AVR on their dedicated input sources. The required behavior for this to work is that the LG TV must send a command to the AVR to change the input source channel. This is technically possible since I use the Denon API in my home automation setup to do just that!

By "decoder" what device are you referring to, what are you decoding?  You will need to make sure that CEC control is also switched on on the "decoder" for it to function correctly.  I for example have a PS5, Nvidia shield, and Raspberry PI all connected to the AV receiver and my "magic" remote deffo control them all.  If I didn't do it this way I wouldn't get things like TrueHD or Dolby Atmos from my other devices.

In my example, I can for example I can press the "PC" button on my remote, and the PS5 will turn on, the TV switches to HDMI2 and then either remote can be used to control the PS5.  If I then press the Netflix button on my magic remote, the AV receiver will switch to TV, arc will handshake and all is well.

PC on my LG tv under input, it doesn't list all all devices, my guess its a limitation.  The problem is that cec isn't always using the standard protocal many tv manufacturers have their own names for it.  On my list it shows my Shield, PS4 and PS5 and Xbox, but doesn't show my Switch, Pi, Shield, or Snes.  But all you do is select HDMI2 on the TV then pick the appropriate source on the AV receiver.

13 minutes ago, Fennepa said:

thx for the reply. not sure what you are suggesting here. If I connect decoder and N-Switch to decidated HDMI ports on the AVR, I will have to use the AVR remote to change the input source, not? Are you telling me that I can still use the Magic remote and pick the desired input source from the on screen menu of WebOS? I concluded that I needed an eARC on the AVR for that to work...

I believe cec is called HDMI control on Denon and it is already switched on

mah you don't need eARC.  but yes you can do exactly that, use our magic remote to control all devices that are connected to your AVR.  The only HDMI you would use one your TV is HDMI2, select your source on tour AV and you can use either your magic remote or your av receiver remote

2 hours ago, Fennepa said:

Hello, I'm experiencing similar issues as described but not identical. I have a LG OLED48C16LA running firmware 03.21020 (latest) I connected HDMI2 to my Denon AVR-x2400h which has ARC (no eARC). We had a power loss this morning and after power was restored, sound is no longer transmitted to the AVR. TV reports "Denon Ready" when switched on, but no audio is received by the AVR. Pressing audio up/down displays the volume sign with mute/unavailable indication. Proposed solutions provided by Jez Brook and langc3 did not work for me. also factory resetting the AVR and TV with HDMI2 disconnected does not work.

To be even more specific: contradicting to the setup of Jez Brook I have a decoder and N-Switch connected directly to the LG TV (HDMI1 and HDMI3 respectively). This is for me the only way to control everything with Magic Remote only. Sound from these devices is available when I switch to TV internal speakers or when I connect them directly to AVR.

any advice is highly appreciated

You seem to have a weird setup, if using the denon on hdmi 2 you shouldnt have the need to use any other hdmi port on the tv itself.  You talk about the remote cec controls not working but if setup on both the tv, receiver and end device correctly should all function as expected so I would look into that issue first before plugging in stuff on hdmi.

And yeah you wouldn't get sound on the av receiver from devices plugged into HDMI 1/3 and directly connecting to the avr would give you lower quality audio (if using optical).

I would recommend turning off all cec and arc and then turn it all back on, starting with the tv.

I don't use the magic remote for much more than my TV, but testing it its working fine on the PS5 and my avreceiver remote is working fine controlling the TV apps and navigation.

So for you make sure HDMI Control, ARC, TV Audio switching and Power Off Control are all set to On on your Denon, Denon also actually advice to reset the power to your TV when you edit arc and hdmi settings so reboot the TV (if you use LG quick start disable that first)

Then on your TV make sure you enable Simplink and Auto power sync, and then set the TV audio out to Optical/HDMI Arc

Just now, Kham K said:

I have the same issue.  My 75" LG TV is brand new and my HDMI ARC port isn't working.  It'll turn the receiver on and off, but I get no sound.  The repair tech changed out the mainboard and I'm still having the same issues.   I'm take the TV back to Costco and exchange it for a nanocell, but from this forum I'm afraid I might have the same issues.  I love the LG WebOS interface, but if this doesn't fix my problem, I'm have to switch brands.

On your receiver switch to a different input so that they TV switches to HDMI2, then switch back to using netflix or what ever on the TV and this will temp get it working for you.

2 hours ago, Bevb said:

For some reason this has been working properly lately and I don't really know why. For a few days I could go through all the steps to make it work, but it would not. Then it suddenly decided to work and has been doing so for several days. There has been another software update, but it was working before that. Honestly, it is so random I have no idea anymore, but I am happy it is working now.

Nope you wil find it works ok for a few days .. until you change source or maybe remove power from the tv and then it breaks again.

On 12/5/2021 at 4:03 AM, Grandstand said:

I've noticed it seems to be directly linked to how many other HDMI cables are plugged in, and if a previously used HDMI device is now inactive/or inputs were switched around. I think the HDMI ARC settings has a bug where it ether continues to attempt to output from a now inactive device, or becomes confused and sends the HDMI Arc signal to a device that has no business getting it, and therefore does not respond. I've noticed that once I'm frustrated enough to pull out all other HDMI cables and only plug in First the ARC  and 2nd the active video source,  It begins to work properly... (until it doesn't again in the next week.)
Super disappointing to hear that the C1's are experiencing it, as I'm on the hunt for an OLED and given these annoying sound issues, I guess I wont be going with an LG


 

Another red herring.  Most users who experience this issue are using an AV receivers so will actually only have one HDMI input connected to the TV (all there devices connect into there receiver) .  Also as arc/earc data is only sent down one hdmi (often #2) I doubt the TV is getting confused which path to send the data down, programming just doesn't work like that and computers don't get confused.

10 hours ago, leosluna said:

Jst having the exact same issue with LG C1 65 inches and Sony HT-RT3. it worked for me previously on another tv the same way. It is kinda frustrating. I'll follow this thread in case anyone else finds a solution 

Just do exactly as I said and it will work again.  Not a perm fix and annoying but it will work for you.   What I believe the fault is caused by is that loading an app the audio output when set to Auto fail negotiation.  Changing source and then back to the app performs the handshake again and it works.  I reckon it could be fixed if LG changes the Audio setting from PCM/Auto to PCM/Dolby/DTS

1 hour ago, JohnBS said:

Replying because this is the first hit on google. I just got my new C1 yesterday and spent a lot of time trying to mess around with every single setting on the TV and Denon surround sound. The answer is painfully simple. 

 

ARC is HDMI 2, not the first one. Move the HDMI cable and your problems go away instantly. 

 

NB: This answer assumes you have up to date HDMI cables and  a set up that was previously working 

Trust me it isn't that simple, so many placebos with this TV, people claim to change receivers, use brand new HDMI cables.  We all know HDMI 2 is the only arc hdmi socket.  Thing is when ppl make above changes, its almost as if it reset the TV and for a while it works and you think you have found the cause... only for the issue to return later on.  There is no perm fix sadly and no company is holding their hands up ad admitting fault.  My solution allows ARC to function 100% of the time but is in no way a fix.

13 hours ago, Bevb said:

I'm going to try your solution. The odd thing is that sometimes this problem resolves itself without my doing anything. If I turn the TV on and it automatically turns on the receiver as well, I know it is going to work. If I have to manually turn the receiver on, I know it isn't working. When it isn't working properly, turning the TV on also turns on my Apple TV, which is fine, but . . . if I'm watching TV instead (HDMI 1) and not Apple TV (HDMI 2) the Apple TV eventually turns itself off and turns the TV off as well. Since the Apple TV is connected to the receiver, I'm not even sure how/why this happens. When I cut the cord for cable in a few months it will be a moot point as I'll just stream anyway. I rarely use the apps on the TV and prefer Apple TV or Fire TV.  However, I probably would use some of the available  apps if I could ever make it work. And you are right that turning the TV off sometimes breaks it, even when it is working properly.

The "solution" really does work 100% of the time , sadly I've never managed to work out what is at fault ,the TV, or the AV receiver.  I am confident it is not the HDMI cables, I've tried cheap, I've tried expensive, its a placebo effect when you change them and it works for a bit but it will fail again.  As does turning off features on your tv or factory resetting the TV.  I'm about 90% sure its the TV which fails to negotiate or even transmit any data over the hdmi but I can't proof this and LG will always pass the book to someone else.  I'd love it if I could intercept the full hdmi signal and break it down.

So in my case on my AV receiver I have all sorts plugged in, an xbox, switch, ps5, nvidia shield snes classic, wii.  If I turn the Switch on, my AV receiver will auto turn to the Switch input and the TV auto changes to HDMI2 and then the little logo will pop up on the AV receiver to show its receiving an audio stream be it pcm, dts or dolby.  I then will press the Netflix button (or Amazon or shortcut button to Disney+ etc) and my AV receiver will change from Switch to TV and the letter ARC will display on the receiver. 

Like you mentioned sometimes, it works as if there is no fault, I will turn the TV on using the Netflix button, and ARC just works, some annoying times i'll turn the TV on with the netflix button, the TV turns on, Netflix loads then almost instantly it switches to HDMI2, and then the PS5 auto turns on ... !

I just think Arc, HDMI-CEC etc is just bugged believe, other control codes are being sent by devices in invalid formats its just not a great tech.

PS I prefer the Netflix app on the TV vs some version on on other streaming devices, mainly because of the supported audio formats, dolby vision and resolutions which aren't always fully supported when using a connected device.  Also you then don't need an extra device switched on just to stream.

This annoying bug has existed for a while on LG tvs right back to 2017 models and I am sure before that, but I kinda have a working solution.

What you need to do is load up an audio source on HDMI (which ever is you arc arc output) and then once audio format is negotiated then switch back to your TV app such as netflix, etc.  This works 100% of the time.

So for example if you have let's say a ps5 or switch connected to your av received turn that on and wait for the av receiver to show a dts, dolby logo etc, I prefer to use my switch because it's the fastest to turn on.  Then just load what ever TV app you want to Netflix, YouTube etc amd you AV receiver (if set up right) will switch to TV and the arc negotiation will work correct and ARC audio will work fine unti you turn off your TV.

Ps turning off the tv doest always break arc, sometimes you turn it on after the above and it works as expected other times it still fails amd you have to perform the above step

Pps, if you can see arc has negotiated but still not audio but maybe you see  pcm logo even though you are using dts, dolby etc to fix that you need to set the to output to the tv then switch it back to hdmi.

Do not use the optical lead, it doesn't support decent audio, most basic 5.1 amd in some cases only stereo.

Around 3 weeks ago I got a notice on my TV (infact 2 notices, the same text) talking about a firmware update for my screen.  It said this would be rolled out throughout December to different countries ...

We are obviously past December and no update so where are we with it?

The reason I want the update is the UK version of Britbox app is broken, it fails and the only way to launch it again is to perform a factory reset (its crashed for me twice, Ive performed one factory reset).  I logged the fault with Britbox, they informed me even a factory reset isn't a guaranteed to work, the fault lies with LG.  My theory is the Britbox app is running some function within webos which doesn't work right, possibly a read/write issue. 

I am in the UK on version 05.80.60